White’s Tree Frog

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White’s Tree Frog Care

White’s tree frogs (also known as Dumpy tree frogs) are a small arboreal frog species native to Australasia. They are relatively easy to care for and are a good starting point for those looking to keep frogs as pets, with a lifespan of 10–15+ years. Handling should be minimized, and when necessary, always wear powder-free gloves.

Enclosure

A tall 15–20 gallon aquarium is recommended for one adult frog. Larger enclosures are needed for additional frogs — no more than five adults in a 100cm × 50cm × 50cm (40″ × 19″ × 19″) enclosure. A tight-fitting, locking screen top is necessary for ventilation and escape prevention.

Perches should be as wide as the frog’s body and positioned primarily horizontally. Diagonally inclined perches should be placed at only slight angles — these heavier frogs can have difficulty climbing steep ones. Plants with stout branches and leaves (snake plants, philodendron) may be added but are not required. Avoid silk plants.

Suitable substrates include brown paper towels, butcher paper, or sealed-edge artificial grass. Natural substrates can be used in more complex setups, but White’s tree frogs commonly ingest gravel, rocks, and mulch, which can cause intestinal blockages. If using natural substrate, feed your frog in a separate bare-bottom container.

Temperature

  • Daytime: 24–29°C (76–85°F), with a basking area not exceeding 32°C (90°F)
  • Nighttime: no lower than 18°C (65°F)

Measure temperatures with a digital thermometer or temperature gun. Nighttime heat is usually not necessary, but if needed, a thermostatically controlled under-tank heating pad may be used.

Lighting

Provide a 12-hour day / 12-hour night cycle using a UVB-emitting bulb such as the Zoo Med Reptisun 2.0 or Arcadia ShadeDweller 2.4%.

Humidity & Water

Maintain humidity at 50–70%. Keep substrate moist but never fully soaked, and do not allow it to dry out completely. Use chlorine- and chloramine-free water — bottled spring water, charcoal-filtered tap water, or tap water aerated for at least 48 hours. A water conditioner may also be used.

  • Provide water at all times; depth should be less than the height of the frog resting with legs folded
  • Add small rocks or ramps to prevent drowning of frogs or prey items
  • Clean water bowls daily or provide filtration
  • Slightly alkaline, moderately hard water is recommended

Diet & Feeding

If uneaten crickets remain after 30 minutes, add a few more at the next feeding. If few or none remain, the serving size is appropriate.

  • Froglets (up to 4cm / 1.5″): 1–4 pinhead crickets daily
  • Sub-adults (up to 8cm / 3″): 1–2 crickets (3–4 weeks old) 2–3 times per week; earthworms or one pinky mouse once monthly
  • Adults: 3–4 large crickets twice weekly; large earthworms, night crawlers, or one fuzzy mouse once monthly

Gut-load crickets with a commercial diet containing at least 8% calcium for 48 hours before use. Dust crickets with calcium carbonate powder 3–4 times weekly. At least once weekly, dust with a multivitamin containing vitamin A (such as ZooMed’s Reptivite) — vitamin A, not beta-carotene, is essential. Feed dusted crickets immediately after dusting, in the early evening when frogs are most active.

Wellness & Preventive Care

We recommend a yearly fecal exam and annual wellness check. Amphibians can become very ill quickly without prompt care. Contact your veterinarian if you notice any of the following:

  • Loose stools or little/no stool production
  • Weight loss or poor appetite
  • Listlessness or unusual inactivity
  • Cloudy eyes
  • Reddish discoloration of the belly skin or legs
  • Swelling of the head, body, or legs
  • Swollen abdomen
  • Difficulty breathing