Tegus

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Tegu Care Guide

Tegus are large lizards native to South America, known for their curiosity and intelligence. They can be tamed and trained with regular handling and interaction. The Salvator species are the most commonly kept in captivity and include the Argentine black and white tegu (Salvator merianae) and the red tegu (Salvator rufescens). Both are larger than the Tupinambis species such as the Colombian black and white tegu (Tupinambis teguixin).

Depending on the species, tegus grow to 24–60″ (61–152 cm) in length and weigh 8–15 lbs (3.6–6.8 kg). Their forked tongue helps them “smell” their environment — by flicking the tongue, they gather sensory information that is processed by a gland at the roof of the mouth.

Tegus are sexually mature at 3 years old and have an average lifespan of 15–20 years. Gender determination in young individuals can be difficult. Males have a single scale on each side of the underside of the tail base near the cloacal vent — absent in females — which can be felt as small raised bumps as the male matures. Males also tend to have more well-developed jowls. Tegus are capable of tail autotomy and should be handled with care.

Enclosure

Tegus are primarily ground-dwelling, burrowing lizards and require a large enclosure that allows for digging and climbing. Minimum size is 8 ft long × 4 ft deep × 4 ft tall, though larger is preferred. Substrate should be at least 2 feet deep to allow burrowing. Good substrate choices include topsoil, cypress mulch, sphagnum moss with leaf litter, or aspen shavings. Spot clean daily and fully replace every 3–6 months. Always feed off the substrate and monitor for signs of ingestion.

Solitary housing is recommended. Supervised free roaming can provide additional exercise, but tegus should spend the majority of the day inside their temperature- and humidity-controlled enclosure for optimal health.

Enrichment items can include logs, sturdy branches or rocks for climbing, and artificial or live nontoxic plants. An elevated basking platform should be provided.

Temperature

Provide a temperature gradient using a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter:

  • Warm side: 85–95°F
  • Cool side: no lower than 75°F (also the nighttime minimum)
  • Basking spot: 95–100°F

Monitor temperatures with a digital probe thermometer or infrared laser thermometer. A reptile thermostat is recommended for safer, more accurate temperature control. Heat rocks should be avoided — they pose a serious risk of severe burns.

Humidity

Maintain humidity at around 80%, measured with a digital hygrometer. Humidity can be maintained through hand or pressure misting twice daily, humidity-retaining substrates, or an automated misting/fogging system.

Provide fresh, clean water in a large, shallow tub big enough for the tegu to soak its whole body. Soak in warm, shallow water (below chin level) for 10–15 minutes 1–2 times weekly to aid hydration, defecation, and shedding. Inadequate humidity can lead to dehydration, kidney disease, and difficulty shedding.

UVB Lighting

Artificial UVB lighting is required for tegus housed indoors. Zoo Med or Arcadia brand bulbs are recommended, such as the ReptiSun 5.0. Ensure your reptile can get within 12–18″ of the bulb. Dense screening can block up to 50% of UVB — multiple bulbs may be needed for enclosures with very dense screens. UVB lighting should be on for 12–14 hours per day with no lighting at night.

Replace UVB bulbs every 6–12 months — the UVB-emitting coating wears off even when the bulb still produces visible light.

Diet & Feeding

Tegus are omnivores. Variety is essential — avoid offering the same food items repeatedly. Diet ratios and feeding frequency vary by age:

  • Juveniles (under 2 years): 70–80% protein, 20–30% greens and vegetables; feed daily as much as they will eat
  • 1–2 years: reduce to 3–4 times weekly
  • Adults (over 2 years): 50–60% protein, 40–50% greens and vegetables; feed twice weekly to prevent obesity
  • Fruit: less than 10% of the diet at all ages

Protein sources: ZooMed’s canned grasshoppers and snails, frozen/thawed feeder rodents, chicks or quail, feeder insects (crickets, roaches, mealworms, hornworms, black soldier fly larvae/phoenix worms, silkworms, red wigglers, earthworms), fish, organ meats (liver, heart, gizzard), eggs (including shell), ground turkey, chicken, duck, venison, rabbit, or lamb, and Reptilinks.

Vegetables: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, squash (spaghetti, scallop, butternut, acorn, Hubbard), peas, Brussels sprouts, carrots, dandelions (pesticide-free), and hibiscus flowers (pesticide-free).

Fruit: mango, raspberries, figs, papaya, cantaloupe, strawberries, and blueberries.

Avoid: citrus, avocado, eggplant, rhubarb, high-sodium canned meats, and high-sodium dog or cat foods and treats.

Supplementation:

  • Calcium carbonate (without D3) — e.g., Zoo Med ReptiCal — sprinkled on food 2–3 times weekly
  • Multivitamin containing true vitamin A — e.g., Zoo Med Reptivite — once weekly. If housed indoors, use Reptivite with D3

Brumation

In the wild, tegus brumate (hibernate) during the cold months of the year. This can be replicated in captivity when temperatures drop below 65°F. A pre-brumation veterinary examination is recommended each season to ensure your tegu is healthy enough to undergo brumation.

Veterinary Care

An annual wellness examination and fecal screening for parasites is recommended for all reptiles.