Red-eared Slider

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Red-Eared Slider Care Guide

Trachemys scripta elegans

Red-eared sliders are the most popular diurnal, semi-aquatic turtle kept as pets. They are native to the eastern and central United States and are invasive in many other areas. Adult females are larger than males; mature males have a noticeably longer tail and longer front nails used in courtship. Red-eared sliders can live 25–50+ years as pets.

Please do not release unwanted pet turtles into the wild, and do not purchase baby turtles from irresponsible roadside vendors.

Enclosure

Baby red-eared sliders can be kept in a 10-gallon tank, Waterland turtle tub, or Rubbermaid container. Adults need a minimum of a 55-gallon aquarium or a large pond setup. Water depth should be at least twice the length of the carapace (top shell).

Water should ideally be filtered with a 25% water change performed weekly. Use a water conditioner and a canister filter rated for twice the tank size (e.g., a filter rated for 100 gallons in a 50-gallon tank) — aquatic turtles produce a large amount of waste. Remove uneaten food and feces daily.

Maintain water temperature at 70–80°F. A submersible heater designed for tropical fish tanks works well for smaller turtles, as do waterproof heat pads placed beneath the tank. Monitor water temperature daily with a submersible thermometer.

A basking platform above the water line is essential. It should allow the turtle to easily climb out of the water or float at the surface. Cork bark, floating wood, sturdily stacked rocks, and commercial floating platforms are all good options. Ensure the turtle cannot climb from the platform and fall out of the enclosure. Adult female turtles will need an area with deep substrate suitable for nesting during breeding season.

Suitable substrate options include fine sand or large smooth river rocks larger than the turtle’s head to prevent accidental ingestion. A bare-bottom setup is also acceptable. Small gravel and pebbles pose an ingestion hazard and should not be used.

Outdoor ponds should be predator-proofed and provide ample shade and basking opportunities.

Temperature

  • Basking area (daytime): 90–95°F (provide at least 10–12 hours of light daily)
  • Basking area (nighttime): 85–90°F (use a ceramic heat emitter)
  • Water temperature: 70–80°F

Lighting

Indoor red-eared sliders require artificial UVB lighting for proper calcium absorption. Use a commercially available fluorescent or mercury vapor reptile UVB bulb suspended above the basking platform. Follow manufacturer instructions for placement — most bulbs require the animal to be within 12–18″ for proper UVB exposure. The light must not be obstructed by glass or other objects. Provide UVB lighting for 10–12 hours per day and replace bulbs every 6–12 months — bulbs stop producing UVB long before they stop emitting visible light.

Higher-output bulbs such as the Reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia Reptile Pro Desert 12% are recommended. A Solarmeter can be used to verify that your bulb is producing sufficient UVB output.

Outdoor pond turtles receive all the UVB they need from the sun. Always provide both areas of direct sunlight and shaded areas.

Humidity

The water section helps maintain ambient humidity, but measure the humidity of the land/basking section with a hygrometer — it should range from 60–80%.

Diet

Red-eared sliders are omnivores. Hatchlings and juveniles consume more animal protein; adults eat more plant matter as they age.

  • Hatchlings and juveniles: feed daily
  • Adults: feed every 2–3 days (adults in outdoor ponds may supplement their diet naturally and are prone to obesity)

A high-quality commercial aquatic turtle pellet or stick diet appropriate to the turtle’s life stage (hatchling, growth, or adult/maintenance) should form the foundation of the diet. Supplement with high-quality live foods (feeder insects and fish, earthworms, bloodworms, blackworms) and small amounts of chopped leafy greens. Fruit should be offered sparingly and only in small quantities to prevent digestive upset.

When feeding greens, vegetables, and live foods, dust with a calcium carbonate powder and a multivitamin (we recommend ZooMed’s Reptivite) 1–2 times weekly. Additional supplementation is not needed when the turtle is consuming a formulated aquatic turtle pellet.

Wellness & Preventive Care

We recommend an annual fecal exam and wellness checkup. We may also request a water sample from your pond or aquarium for water quality evaluation. Seek veterinary care promptly if your turtle is:

  • Lethargic or not eating or growing well
  • Showing nasal discharge, bubbling, or difficulty breathing
  • Has puffy or discharging eyes
  • Has a soft shell or mobility issues
  • Floating excessively or unable to submerge
  • Spending excessive time basking without swimming
  • Has been attacked by another animal