Basic Care: Rabbits
INSIGHTS INTO RABBITS
The domestic rabbit (Oryctolagus cuniculus) can be a fantastic and loving pet. When well kept, the average rabbit can live for up to 10 years or more! Typically, dwarf breeds live longer than giant breeds. Let us help you set your rabbit friend up for success at home!
Domestic rabbits are a crepuscular species, meaning that they are most active around sunrise and sunset so that might be when your rabbit wants to play. Many bunnies will adjust their schedule so that they are most active when you first wake-up and between your dinnertime and\ bedtime. It is important that your rabbit has a dedicated “bed-time” so as not to interfere with normal circadian rhythms. Studies have shown that rabbits with interrupted sleep cycles while dealing with illness have a poorer prognosis than rabbits that are allowed to have normal sleep cycles.
Most rabbits are gregarious animals meaning they enjoy the company of other rabbits. Typically, rabbits live as a bonded pair. However, not all rabbits get along and some rabbits are best kept alone. For more information on bonding rabbits visit: https://rabbit.org/faq-bonding-multiple-rabbits/.
While rabbits are typically regarded as a species that does not vocalize, rabbits actually have a variety of verbal and non-verbal cues to indicate how they are feeling. For example, a happy rabbit may hum or jump and kick their back legs (referred to as a “binky” in layman’s terms). An angry rabbit my thump their hind feet or grunt. A rabbit in severe distress may even scream. If your rabbit screams while being handled, immediately put the rabbit down.
If your friends like your rabbit and want one of their own, recommend that they adopt a rabbit from a rescue or check with a local humane society. We don’t recommend buying them from pet stores.
HANDLING TIPS
Always scoop up a rabbit with your arms so that its back legs are supported. A rabbit that kicks and dangles can break its back. Children should always have an older experienced rabbit handler help them get a rabbit out of its pen or cage, and to be nearby while they hold the rabbit. As a general rule, children under the age of 12 may not understand or remember how important it is to be careful with rabbits and need supervision at all times. Some children under this age are very careful and some children older than this may play too rough with pets, so it is important to use your judgment about your child’s abilities before leaving him or her alone with a rabbit.
HOUSING
When choosing housing options for your rabbit, please consider the lifestyle you are willing to live to give your rabbit adequate exercise and environmental stimulation. Many rabbits do well as free-range house rabbits; however, the home needs to be appropriately rabbit proofed to ward off dangers. Also, rabbits that are free range often get less exercise overall so consider partial time caging.
When it comes to confining a rabbit to a safe space, bigger is always better. If you have room, a rabbit should be kept in an exercise pen. Housing length and width should be 4-6 times your rabbit’s length when fully stretched out. The height depends on your rabbit’s skill as a jumper but should be at least 2 feet high.
Any cage should be well-ventilated. Daily exercise outside the cage is a must, such as within a bunny-proofed room, yard, or exercise pen. Some rabbits can even be leashed trained to enjoy time outside or participate in agility competitions!
If the cage or exercise pen has a solid floor, you may not need to put anything down as long as your rabbit is litter-box trained. If your rabbit has accidents outside the litter box, you may try newspaper, brown paper, or special paper cage liners.
Some rabbits with special health needs may have trouble getting in and out of the litter-box or may be unable to control urination. These rabbits often do well on a fleece blanket placed over dog potty-pads. Urine quickly drains through the fleece and gets trapped in the dog potty-pads. The fleece can be washed and re-used but it’s best to have several changes of fleece available so you are not having to do a load of wash daily.
ENRICHMENT
Rabbits are a highly intelligent species and enjoy having a lot of interaction with different textures in their environment. Providing your rabbit’s enclosure with a variety of rabbit safe items to chew on (such as from the Oxbow Enriched Life™ line) will allow your rabbit to exhibit normal inquisitive behaviors. Consider the many toys available as well as some human toddler toys that work well.
Additionally, your rabbit will need to seek out a quiet dark place that resembles a natural burrow. A cardboard box big enough to hide in (but not so cramped a rabbit can’t turn around) is essential or a more permanent dark nest box. A dig box is also an excellent option for your rabbit to have a place to scratch and dig in a box filled with shredded paper, hay, or grass mats.
LITTER BOXES
Rabbits naturally seek out an area of their burrows to use as a litter area. House rabbits should be provided with a litter pan in a dedicated corner of the pen. Warning: your rabbit may have a different opinion than you which corner is best for his or her litter area.
Paper pulp products, such as Yesterday’s News™ or Carefresh™ Clean and Cozy Unscented, or compressed straw pellets, such as Eco-Straw Litter, should be used in the litter box. A layer of litter about 2 inches thick will absorb urine and trap odors even if you miss a cleaning one day. Some people place newspaper on the bottom of the litter box and then place the litter on top to make cleaning the litter box easier. It can be dumped into the trash without having to scrape litter stuck to the bottom of the litter box. Top the litter with a layer of hay for training and long term use.
Spot-clean the litter box daily, more often if needed, is important so that your rabbit does not develop dirty fur on its hind feet and tail from going into a soiled litter box. Additionally, keeping the litter box clean will make sure your rabbit’s area is free of unpleasant odors which may contribute to upper respiratory infections. Complete cleaning of the litter box should occur once every 1 to 2 weeks using hot soapy water. Rinse well and then wipe it down with vinegar to disinfect it. The vinegar will also break down hard crystal deposits that sometimes form in rabbit urine and stick to the litter box.
Training your new rabbit to use a litterbox:
Most rabbits quickly learn to use their litter boxes on their own but you may need to place some soiled material (urine and fresh feces) in with the litter to get them started along with a lot of hay. They will sit in the box and eat and learn to use it for urination and defecation.
HEAT
Rabbits can become overheated easily. Do not expose to temperatures above 85°F or below 60°F for any length of time. If your yard is securely fenced and has plenty of trees and cool shady areas, your rabbit will appreciate time outdoors in the early morning or very late afternoon to early evening except during our hottest months, June through September. It’s important that you check on your rabbit every 10 to 15 minutes, or watch it while it is outside since a rabbit can quickly overheat. Additionally, outdoor rabbits may end up with unpleasant encounters with predators such as feral cats, dogs, and birds of prey — even in suburban neighborhoods.
DIET
The majority of a rabbit’s diet should be grass hay. Timothy hay, Bermuda, orchard grass, and many other options should be available all of the time. This provides the right amount of fiber to keep their gastrointestinal tract healthy and helps prevent problems from developing with their teeth.
Alfalfa hay is not a grass hay, but a legume! It is a great source of protein and calcium for growing, pregnant, or lactating individuals. However, adult rabbits do not need alfalfa, unless specifically prescribed by a veterinarian. It is a myth that adult rabbits should not eat it, but it should be used sparingly because of it’s high calorie count. Alfalfa hay should be offered to lactating female rabbits until the young are weaned.
For adult rabbits, we recommend offering a measured amount of timothy hay based pellets (e.g., Oxbow, Sherwood Forest, Selective diets etc.). Pellets are to ensure that our rabbit friends are getting micronutrients which may be highly variable in hay or completely absent. Rabbits under 5 lbs should get no more than 1/4 of a cup of pellets daily while larger rabbits should be offered no more than 1/2 to 3/4 cup daily.
Baby and juvenile rabbits can be offered alfalfa based pellets (e.g., Oxbow Young Rabbit Diet) or fed to rabbits with special needs, but are not recommended for healthy adult rabbits. These pellets should also be fed to lactating female bunnies until weaning.
Depending on the size of the rabbit, one to three cups of dark green leafy vegetables, fresh grass, and safe plants like hibiscus leaves and flowers may also be given daily. Tiny treats of fruit such as banana or watery vegetables such as carrots are okay in very small amounts but are best avoided. Give no more than a 1” slice of banana or a baby carrot a day. This amount may be too much for some rabbits. Overfeeding of these treats often causes diarrhea or chronic gastrointestinal issues. For a listing of what treats are healthy and what are not, please see https://rabbit.org/suggested-vegetables-and-fruits-for-a-rabbit-diet/.
Salt and mineral blocks are not necessary for domestic rabbits and should be avoided.
WATER
Clean water should always be available. Water can be provided by a bowl, bottle, or ideally both! A water bowl allows your rabbit to hold its head in a more natural position while drinking and studies have shown rabbits that are offered bowls drink more water than rabbits offered water bottles. Disinfect the bowl or bottle with a solution of 1 tablespoon bleach to 1 cup of water at least once a week and rinse thoroughly with fresh water before refilling it for your rabbit. A water bowl should be washed daily in warm soapy water, rinsed well, and filled with clean drinking water.
PREVENTIVE MEDICINE
Doing what we can to keep our patients happy and healthy is important to us. An annual wellness examination is recommended for all our furry patients to make sure they are healthy, make sure their teeth are growing properly, and to catch problems before they become serious.
Spay and Neuter: Spay or neuter your rabbit at 5 to 6 months of age. Spaying and neutering can help with certain aggressive behaviors or excessive scent marking. Additionally, reproductive cancer is very common in rabbits and easily prevented with spaying or neutering.
COMMON PROBLEMS
Loss of appetite and change in stools: Many rabbits will lose their appetite or have hard tiny stools when they are sick. If a rabbit goes more than 8-12 hours without eating or more than 4 hours without defecating, it needs to be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.
Malocclusion of the teeth: Many rabbits, particularly of the dwarf breeds, may develop problems with their teeth. When the premolars and molars (i.e., cheek teeth) don’t wear properly they form sharp points that can cause ulcers of the cheek and tongue. This can cause a rabbit to lose its appetite, drool (known as slobbers in layman’s terms), and develop abnormal hard small fecal pellets or diarrhea. Treatment normally requires anesthesia so that the cheek teeth may be filed into more normal shapes. Some rabbits may need filings every 4 to 6 weeks or tooth extractions in order to do well.
Mandibular abscess: A rabbit may develop a lump and a discharge from its jaw or neck. Many times this is due to an infection of the root of the teeth and will not clear up on antibiotics alone. Surgery is typically required to remove the infected tooth and associated infected bone. This may be a very difficult problem to resolve and may take weeks to months of treatments at the hospital and at home.
Congested or runny nose: A rabbit may develop a clear runny or thick yellowish discharge from its nostrils and dried crusts around its nose (commonly referred to as snuffles). Sometimes the rabbit may sneeze frequently and may also have problems breathing. Pasteurella is the classic cause of this, but nasal congestion may also be caused by very serious illnesses such as abscesses, deep sinus infections, inner ear infections, pneumonia, and bone infections which may require surgery and long-term antibiotic treatment.
Runny eyes: A rabbit may develop a watery or thick yellowish discharge from either or both eyes. There are many possible causes for this and a thorough ophthalmic exam is needed to uncover the underlying problem. It may also be caused by overgrown roots of the teeth, a condition associated with malocclusion of the teeth. Radiographs (i.e., X-ray films) of the skull may be needed to identify the cause of runny eyes.
Head Tilt: A rabbit may develop a head tilt from an inner ear infection or a disease called Encephalitozoon cuniculi, as well as head injuries, heatstroke, and many other conditions. The sooner a rabbit with a head tilt is examined by a veterinarian, the more likely it will be able to be helped.
Matted hair: This may be secondary to malocclusion of the teeth since a rabbit uses its incisor teeth like a comb to groom its fur. If the incisor teeth are normal, this may indicate back pain, arthritis, or some other discomfort that makes the rabbit reluctant to curl into the positions needed to groom itself. Sometimes this may happen as a result of a dirty litter box, or diarrhea or “sludgy” urine accumulating around its hind end.
Hair loss: Some rabbits may groom themselves or their companions excessively and cause patches of hair loss, a condition called “barbering”. Other causes of hair loss include the ringworm (a fungal infection and not a true “worm”), mites and fleas, irritation from urine scalding, endocrine problems, and other conditions.
Tumors: Unspayed female rabbits have a high incidence of uterine tumors and mammary tumors (breast tumors) that can dramatically shorten their life. These are some of the main reasons that we recommend spaying a rabbit when it is young.
Rabbit Anesthesia FAQ
1. What is sedation versus anesthesia? Sedation and anesthesia are important resources commonly used in veterinary medicine, especially with small exotic animals. Whether they are used to assist with diagnostic testing, procedures, or surgery, sedation or anesthesia is often required to help minimize risks and maximize your pet’s safety. Sedation is utilized more often than anesthesia and helps provide a state of relaxation and reduced anxiety through the administration of injectable or oral medications. Sedation is commonly used prior to anesthesia to help minimize stress with anesthetic induction. Anesthesia, as the name implies, is the full loss of consciousness or awareness through the use of injectable or constant rate infusions of medications or inhalation of anesthetic gas.
2. What is the anesthetic risk in rabbits compared to dogs/cats? A study that compared dogs, cats, and rabbits showed that anesthetic risks in dogs and cats are significantly lower compared to rabbits (1) This demonstrates why rabbit anesthesia monitoring is so important and why no sedation or anesthetic event is ever benign and without risk. At our hospital, we have an amazing team of doctors and technicians who work closely to care for your rabbit and ensure your pet receives the highest level of care they require, as well as intervene quickly when complications arise.
3. What are the specific anesthetic risks with rabbits? Why is body temperature important in rabbits? Specific anesthetic risks in rabbits include stress during induction of anesthesia, hypothermia, fewer accessible veins for catheterization, difficulties with endotracheal intubation, GI hypomotility after anesthesia, and corneal ulceration. It is also important to consider whether or not your pet has subclinical respiratory infections or other illnesses that can further increase the risk of anesthetic complications and mortality. Other anesthetic risks include decreased heart rate, decreased respiratory rate or absence of breathing (apnea), and cardiac arrest. Rabbits are obligate nasal breathers, which means they can only normally breathe through their nose, unlike dogs and cats. Therefore, monitoring a rabbit’s breathing is very important. Providing oxygen and anesthetic gas through an endotracheal tube or via a tightly fitted nose mask are ways to ensure your pet gets adequate airflow. For more information on intubation, please refer to the section below. Hypothermia, or low body temperature, is one of our primary concerns in rabbits, and this is a common effect of anesthesia. Heat loss occurs due to lowered blood pressure and a high surface area to body weight ratio in rabbits (and other small exotic mammals). This can lead to body temperature changes. Hypothermia can lead to a slower recovery from anesthesia. Ways we address or prevent hypothermia include heat pads, forced-air warming blankets, warm water bags, blankets, and covering extremities during the procedure. Anesthesia causes decreased GI motility, which is a side effect that can significantly impact a rabbit. To prevent GI complications, we do not recommend fasting rabbits before anesthesia. Once they are awake enough to swallow, we make sure we offer them food and critical care assist feedings to help encourage the gut to move. Depending on the case, we may recommend that clients continue to syringe or assist feed at home until their pet has returned to eating normally. Corneal ulcers can occur in any pet under anesthesia because they are unable to close their eyelids. Therefore, their eyes stay open, increasing the risk of drying out or becoming injured. To prevent corneal ulceration, rabbit eyes are lubricated with a special eye lubricant. However, there is still the risk that a corneal ulcer can develop, despite preventative measures. If a corneal ulcer (abrasion to the corneal surface) is suspected after anesthesia, then we will recommend administering eye medications.
4. What is CPR, and how do I choose a CPR status for my rabbit? CPR stands for cardiopulmonary resuscitation, which is an emergency procedure to keep blood and oxygen flowing when the heart or breathing has stopped, or arrested. Cardiopulmonary arrest can occur due to anesthesia, physiological stress, or an underlying disease condition. CPR is the act of an intensive and rather aggressive intervention with the goal of the patient having a heart rate and breathing on their own. This includes chest compressions, delivery of oxygen, multiple injectable medications, and more. If the rabbit has not been intubated prior to going into cardiac arrest, an endotracheal tube should be placed to open an airway and directly deliver oxygen. An intravenous or intraosseous catheter should be placed to administer medications and fluids to help with blood pressure. Complications with CPR can include broken ribs and bruised lungs, and intensive hospitalization is often recommended if CPR is successful and the rabbit survives. CPR is an individual choice and may vary from one pet to another, depending on their age and the reason for the visit. It’s important to talk to your veterinarian about the risks and complications of anesthesia, as well as the prognosis of the overall health of your rabbit. This kind of discussion will help guide your choice of confirming CPR or not for your pet. It is important to know that whatever CPR status you choose, our veterinary team fully understands the careful and informed decision of confirming or declining CPR efforts for your pet.
5. Why is pre-anesthetic bloodwork important? If you’ve ever had a conversation with a veterinarian before an anesthetic event for your pet, you may have discussed the option of having pre-anesthetic bloodwork performed. Having recent blood work performed is our standard of care because some of the pre-anesthetic medications and anesthetic gases can affect the major body systems. Sometimes it can result in changes to our pre-anesthetic plan, or may prompt further discussion with you about the appropriateness or safety of the procedure for your pet. Younger rabbits may be at less risk for liver or kidney issues compared to older rabbits, but unfortunately, we won’t know without bloodwork. Performing bloodwork on a healthy rabbit also determines their baseline normal values, which are useful to compare to in the future.
6. Why do we recommend intravenous catheters? Why are surgical fluids important? An intravenous catheter can be placed in your rabbit’s vein to help deliver fluids and medications. This is also useful in the event of cardiopulmonary arrest to administer medications immediately into the vascular system, rather than into the muscle, where the effect is slower. At our hospital, owners have the option of choosing to have an IV catheter placed for elective and routine procedures, but it may be standard of care for more intensive or invasive procedures. During a procedure or surgery, we will provide fluids to help with blood pressure, peri-operative hydration, and replace fluids due to blood loss. We will administer fluids using the IV catheter if one was placed. Otherwise, we will give fluids under the skin in the subcutaneous space, which are absorbed over several hours.
7. What is intubation, and why is it important in rabbits? Intubation is the act of placing a flexible tube (called an endotracheal tube, or ET tube) through the mouth into the trachea (windpipe). Placing an ET tube allows for direct administration of oxygen and anesthetic gas to your pet. Not only does an ET tube ensure a clear airway, but it also prevents complications like respiratory depression and aspiration during anesthesia, and is crucial during CPR efforts. Placing an ET tube in a rabbit can be challenging due to their anatomy and the inability to open their mouth wide, like in dogs and cats, for visualization and accessibility. Intubation sometimes requires an endoscope to assist in placement, which is an instrument used to view internal body parts. Risks with intubation are low and rarely occur. However, intubation can cause inflammation or damage to their small trachea. This is why it is important to have knowledge of rabbit anatomy and be comfortable with the technique of intubating. Our veterinary team is quite skilled at intubating rabbits to ensure the best care for your pet! If a rabbit cannot be intubated, such as if a rabbit is too small, there are other methods of ensuring proper anesthesia and oxygen delivery. A V-gel is an advanced supraglottic airway device that we can use in place of an ET tube (5) . Designed to sit over the opening of the trachea, there is less risk of causing damage to the trachea. However, the risk of using a V-gel is that the delivery of anesthetic gas and oxygen may not be as direct since the tube is not positioned within the trachea like an ET tube. The other alternative is providing a tight-fitting face mask over their nose with or without covering the mouth. While placing an ET tube or V-gel is preferred, this method is also successful for anesthetic and oxygen delivery due to the rabbit’s unique respiratory anatomy. This can be used for short procedures, like dental trimming and wound care, as well as surgeries.
8. What is involved with anesthetic monitoring in rabbits? When your rabbit is under anesthesia, our team diligently monitors the following: – Temperature – Heart rate and rhythm – Breathing rate and patterns – Lung sounds – Oxygen perfusion and gas exchange – Pain status – Depth of anesthetic-induced unconsciousness Since rabbit anesthesia is so involved and inherently has its own risks, compared to dogs and cats, our anesthesia team is fully knowledgeable and intervenes when complications arise. This skill applies to all of our companion exotic species as well. Our hospital is involved in many anesthetized diagnostics, procedures, and surgeries, and our veterinary team excels with anesthetic monitoring and intervention. Our team will also make sure your pet is comfortable and recovering appropriately after anesthesia.
9. What post-operative care is provided at the hospital? Anesthetic monitoring doesn’t end after the surgery is complete and the anesthetic gas is turned off. Our team will continue to monitor your rabbit afterwards and make sure they are recovering appropriately. We monitor their temperature, return to consciousness, oxygen perfusion, and more. We will keep rabbits in an incubator and provide additional heat support if needed to help increase their temperature, as they are often hypothermic after surgery. If they are slower to recover, we can reverse some of their pre-anesthetic sedation medications. Once they are alert and moving around, we make sure they start eating right away. We will offer hay and assisted syringe feedings to promote a return to normal GI motility and function.
10. What post-operative care is necessary to provide at home? Recovery doesn’t necessarily end when your pet is discharged from the hospital. If the anesthetic event happened that day, your rabbit may be tired for the rest of the afternoon or evening. It will be important for you to watch them closely to make sure they are not acting more lethargically or unresponsive to stimuli. While they may not eat their normal amount right after anesthesia and surgery, they should return to eating their normal amount of hay within 24-48 hours. You may need to provide assisted syringe feedings to your rabbit if their appetite is not improving. Appetite recovery can be patient-dependent, so if you have any questions, it’s important to reach out to your veterinarian for advice. Specific discharge instructions will be sent home with you and your rabbit. Our veterinarians provide important information regarding any medications and the care needed for your rabbit after anesthesia and/or any procedure. Therefore, it is very important to read and follow those discharge instructions to help ensure the best possible outcome for your pet!
References
1. Lee, H.W. et al. 2018. Peri-anaesthetic mortality and nonfatal gastrointestinal complications in pet rabbits: a retrospective study on 210 cases. Vet of Anes and Analg 45 (4), 520-528.
2. Baileya K, Brileya J, Duffee L, Duke-Novakovskic T, Grubb T, Kruse-Elliotte K, Loves L, Martin-Flores M, McKuneg C, Odah A, Pang DS, Posner LP, Reed R, Sagerk J, Sakai DM, Schultz AW, Tenenbaum-Shih S. 2025. The American College of Veterinary Anesthesia and Analgesia Small Animal Anesthesia and Sedation Monitoring Guidelines. Assoc of Vet Anaes and Am Col of Vet Anes and Analg 52, 377-385.
3. Buckley GJ, DeCubellis J, Sharp CR, Rozanski EA. 2011. Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation in Hospitalized Rabbits: 15 cases. Jour of Ex Pet Med, 20 (1), 46 –50.
4. Wenger S. 2012. Anesthesia and analgesia in rabbits and rodents. Jour of Ex Pet Med 21, 7–16
5. https://jorvet.com/product/v-gel-advanced-supraglottic-airway-device-rabbit
Rabbit Towel Restraint
Encephalitozoon cuniculi associated Phacoclastic Uveitis
E. cuniculi-associated phacoclastic uveitis is a recognized disease in rabbits, particularly dwarf rabbits. There is no sex predilection and the condition is often seen in younger rabbits. The lesion occurs after rupture of the lens capsule releases lens protein into the anterior chamber, which results in granulomatous uveitis; however, the posterior chamber usually remains unaffected. The mass originates at the lens capsule, and the inflammation is centered on the break in the capsule.
Historically, serum ELISA antibody titers were helpful in making a diagnosis; however, screening can now be accomplished through PCR on tissue, urine and feces samples, as well as cerebrospinal fluid and removed lens material. Simultaneous testing of IgG and IgM specific antibodies can give an indication of infection status as IgM antibodies indicate active infection. PCR can be done on lens material in cases of enucleation. Histologic demonstration of organisms gives a definitive diagnosis if samples are obtained.
Treatment options include antiprotozoal medication such as fenbendazole and in some cases topical corticosteroids, surgery to remove the affected lens and granuloma, or complete enucleation of the eye. In some cases the eye may atrophy without surgical intervention (phtisis bulbi). If the lesion is mild long-term oral antiprotozoal medication may be effective in preventing progression.
E. cuniculi-associated phacoclastic uveitis should be on the differential diagnosis list for rabbits presenting with ocular lesions and uveitis.
Urine Scald Dermatitis in Pet Rabbits
Rabbits that are unintentionally urinating on themselves or sitting in their own urine for prolonged periods can develop urine scald. Urine scald occurs when urine is left to soak onto the fur and skin which results in fur loss, inflammation and/or ulceration and infection (burning) of the skin. This can occur for several reasons including: 1) litter box not cleaned frequently enough, 2) the rabbit is unable to assume the proper stance for urination, or 3) medical problems resulting in the rabbit producing too much urine or an inability to control urine retention/voiding. A rabbit’s litter box should be changed frequently. At the very least every other day; however, every day would be ideal. If you are seeing excessive urine staining on the fur or urine scalding despite appropriate husbandry, please bring your pet in for evaluation.
Some problems that can result in a rabbit being unable to assume the proper stance and become predisposed for urine scalding include: obesity, arthritis, fractures, balance disorders (example: rabbits with head tilt), paralysis, splayed legs, etc. Rabbits with kidney disease may produce excessive amounts of urine resulting in urine scald. Rabbits with urinary tract infections or bladder stones or sludge may urinate more frequently and in abnormal locations, resulting in scald. Rabbits with an injury or infection (such as Encepalitozoon cuniculi) causing damage to the nervous system or may have urinary incontinence resulting in urine scald. Diagnostic testing to understand why your pet has urine scald may include bloodwork, urinalysis and urine culture, radiographs , and E. cuniculi testing. Treatments often include antibiotics, pain relievers, fur shaving, careful bathing, and skin care/protection.
Osteoarthritis and Senior Rabbit Care
As rabbits age, it is common for them to develop conditions that make it challenging for them to go about day-to-day activities. Most commonly, rabbits will develop osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease making it difficult for them to ambulate and groom themselves. Osteoarthritis is a painful condition of the joints that results in inflammation and a decreased range of motion. Most affected joint spaces are the knees (stifles) and the area where the spine meets the pelvis (lumbosacral). Large breed rabbits, obese rabbits, and those who have sustained a musculoskeletal injury in the past have an increased risk for this condition. Some signs that your rabbit may need a veterinary exam regarding osteoarthritis and senior care are muscle wasting over the spine/pelvis, hunched posture, reluctance to move or decrease in physical activity, cecotrophs being left uneaten, urine/fecal staining of the fur, and/or a decreased appetite. The following information is meant as a guide to help rabbit owners promote comfort and cleanliness for their senior rabbits.
Veterinary exam and pain medication
A veterinary examination is the most important step in caring for your senior rabbit. A veterinarian will be able to evaluate your furry loved one for any underlying medical conditions and may find things you are unaware of. If warranted, they will make recommendations for diagnostic tests, radiographs, and/or treatments. Pain/anti-inflammatory medication is often used in rabbits with arthritis but there are many other things to consider before starting this. A supplement we recommend to promote joint health is Oxbow’s Natural Science Joint Support. If you would like to schedule an exam for your rabbit, please give us a call!
Bedding
Rabbits with arthritis will often sit in their urine or feces after they pass it because it is painful for them to move. One way we can help keep them clean is by keeping them on padded/absorbent bedding that allows them to sit in one place for a long period of time without becoming soiled or getting bed sores. There are a lot of options on the market such as fleece or washable mats. To see more options, please visit this website. Ultimately, any absorbent bedding that promotes traction is perfect! Piling hay in the litter box is also helpful.Just be sure to avoid pine and cedar due to the strong aromatic components of these substrate that can cause respiratory problems in rabbits and other small furry animals.
Grooming
As rabbits age and get arthritis, they often are not as capable of grooming themselves. It is very important to brush your rabbit at least 1-2 times per week. Matting in senior rabbits is very common and unfortunately a very painful condition. Lack of grooming in a senior rabbit can result in wounds and skin infections. Be sure to focus on areas along their back, around their tail, and under their back legs. We recommend gently picking your rabbit up to inspect their bellies and hind end once a week to prevent any matting from going unnoticed. For brushes, we recommend Small Pet Select Pet HairBuster Comb and FURminators.
Urine scald – What is it and how to prevent it?
Urine scald is the result of urine sitting on the skin/fur for extended periods of time resulting in a chemical burn of the skin. This can cause secondary skin infections, inflammation, and a lot of pain. In order to prevent it, make sure you keep your furry friend on absorbent bedding (see above) and as dry as possible. To remove urine from fur, do NOT give your rabbit frequent baths although sometimes a ‘butt bath” is needed. Instead of this, we recommend organic/natural baby wipes to clean urine soaked fur. If your rabbit’s fur is past the point of being able to clean with baby wipes, please contact us to schedule an appointment for an exam and sanitary clean/clipping of fur. Shaving the fur is a very important component of managing this condition.
Enclosure
For senior rabbits, especially those with arthritis, it is recommended to provide them as much traction as possible and ensure there are no areas in the enclosure requiring them to jump to get to food/water. We recommend setting them up in a large, one level enclosure and having shallow litter boxes. In the photo, you can see a plastic under the bed container with a cut out where the rabbits enter being used as a litter box. An easy way you can section off an area for your rabbit is to purchase wire cubby squares and use them as a fence rather than for storage. You can see an example of this in the picture as well. It is also very important to ensure hay, water, and pellets are easily accessible. We recommend them being at eye level for all rabbits as standing up on their back legs to reach food can be painful if they have arthritis. Water bowls are recommended instead of or in addition to a bottle.
Acupuncture
Just like it works in people, acupuncture is a modality we can use to help with chronic pain in our rabbit friends. This should be performed by a certified professional. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to an acupuncturist comfortable working with rabbit patients.
Laser Therapy
Laser therapy is a low stress treatment with minimal to no side effects that can help reduce chronic pain associated with osteoarthritis. It targets areas of inflammation, pain, and infection thus decreasing inflammation and pain and accelerating healing. This is recommended to be performed 2-3 times weekly to as needed, and is performed by a technician once prescribed by a doctor. This is a service we provide at our hospitals.
TLC
Overall, the most important thing for your senior rabbit is provide them with tender, loving care! You are their bunny parents and know them best. Adapt their lifestyle to their needs, keep a close eye on their weight and appetite, and spoil them with all the love you possibly can. If you ever have any questions about caring for your rabbit or want to have a veterinarian examine them, please do not hesitate to reach out to us. That is what we are here for!
Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus 2
Rabbit Viral Hemorrhagic Disease is caused by a Calicivirus. Though multiple types of this virus have been identified, the serotype that has been seen in the most recent outbreaks here in the United States involves Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus serotype 2 (RHDV2). RHDV2 is a non-enveloped, single stranded RNA calicivirus that targets the liver and causes destruction of the cells within the liver leading to severe liver damage and dysfunction as well as problems with the animal’s ability to clot his/her blood. Clotting disorders lead to the bruising and bleeding that can be seen within the whites of the eyes, the eye lids, and nostrils as the disease progresses. This strain of RHDV affects both our beloved domestic house rabbits as well as some of the wild rabbit population. In general, a rabbit exposed to the virus can show signs within 1 to 5 days. If a rabbit survives, he/she may not show any signs of the virus and continue to shed the active particles for up to 40 days. Due to the structure of the virus, it is sturdy and can remain in the environment for over 100 days in the right conditions and has been shown to survive over 90 days in the carcass of a dead animal. It can also survive freezing temperatures and the thawing process. There have been several disinfectants that prove effective. These require scrubbing in order to break through any dirt and debris and allow the disinfectant to access the virus. Effective disinfectants include dilute bleach (1-part bleach to 10 parts water), Virkon, Rescue, parvasol, and Peroxiguard. Currently, there is no known direct treatment for this disease so prevention is key. Supportive care is recommended as some will recover.
A rabbit can become exposed to the virus through:
- humans, clothing, and equipment that have come in contact with infected animals
- direct contact with infected live rabbits as well as dead rabbit meat and fur.
- insects’ flies, fleas, and mosquitoes
- rodent exposure as well as through the feces of predatory birds and mammals who have ingested an infected rabbit.
- when directly coming into contact with bodily fluids of an infected rabbit (urine, feces, respiratory secretions, etc.)
Clinical signs for RHVD2 can include:
- fever
- quiet, decreased energy
- decreased or loss of appetite
- incoordination, abnormal walking, seizure-like activity
- increased respiratory effort and rate
- bloody nasal discharge
- bleeding within the eyelid and whites of the eyes
- yellowing of the skin, ears, and whites of the eyes
- weight loss
- GI signs (Stasis, diarrhea, etc.)
Currently, there is no known treatment for this disease other than supportive care. It is best to focus on prevention. Ways to prevent this disease can include:
- Vaccines, where immunity has been shown within 7-10 days
- House your rabbit indoors to prevent exposure to wildlife and insects
- Avoiding contact with other people’s rabbits or wash-up and change your shoes and clothes once returning home if visiting places where you might have been exposed to other rabbits (feed stores, rescues, humane society, fair grounds, etc.)
- Wash your hands and do not share equipment between rabbits within your household if they are housed separately
- Minimize insects entering into your home.
- Quarantine any new incoming rabbits away from a population for at least 30 to 40 days
Rabbit Diet Recommendations
A rabbit’s digestive system is designed to digest hays, grasses, and fiber. Large amounts of sugary and starchy foods high in easy to digest carbohydrates can lead to serious medical problems. Grass hay is also essential in making sure the teeth stay healthy.
A healthy rabbit’s diet should consist of unlimited amounts timothy and other grass hays, 1-3 cups of fresh leafy greens daily, and only about 1/8-1/4 cup of quality timothy pellets for rabbits up to 5 lbs and up to 3/4 cup for rabbits up to 10 lbs. Fruits and sugary vegetables (i.e. carrots) should only be offered as a rare treat in small quantities (no more than 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs body weight) or never at all. Healthy rabbit pellets will be timothy based pellets and NOT contain artifical colors or seeds, nuts, and dried fruits.
As stated above timothy hay and other grass hays, such as Bermuda grass and orchard grass, should be available all the time and should be the main food your rabbit eats. This provides the right amount of fiber to keep their gastrointestinal tract healthy and helps prevent problems developing with their teeth. Depending on the size of the rabbit, one to three cups of dark green leafy vegetables, fresh grass, mulberry leaves, and hibiscus leaves and flowers may also be given daily. Tiny treats of fruit such as banana or watery vegetables such as carrots are okay in very small amounts. Give no more than a 1” slice of banana or a baby carrot a day. This amount may be too much for a dwarf rabbit. Overfeeding of these treats often causes diarrhea. For a listing of what treats are healthy and what’re not, please see below.
Salt blocks are not necessary for rabbits.
Alfalfa pellets may be given to growing, geriatric, lactating, or rabbits with special needs but are not recommended for healthy adult rabbits.
Greens, Vegetables, and Fruits for Rabbits
We recommend feeding a rabbit 1 – 3 cups of leafy greens every day, along with unlimited timothy hay and a small amount of pellets. Other vegetables can be fed in small amounts, no more than 1 tablespoon per 2 pounds of body weight. Fruits should only be fed RARELY as treats. Here is a list of healthy produce options for your rabbit.
LEAFY GREENS
feed 1-3 cups per day depending on the size of your rabbit
Parsley
Spinach
Mustard greens
Beet greens
Swiss chard
Radish tops
Sprouts (from 1 to 6 days after sprouting, sprouts have higher levels of alkaloids)
Arugula
Carrot tops
Cucumber leaves
Endive
Escarole
Frisee Lettuce
Kale (all types)
Mache
Red or green lettuce
Romaine lettuce
Spring greens
Turnip greens
Dandelion greens
Mint (any variety)
Basil (any variety)
Watercress
Wheat grass
Chicory
Raspberry leaves
Cilantro
Radicchio
Bok Choy
Fennel (the leafy tops as well as the base)
Borage leaves
Dill leaves
Yu choy
NON-LEAFY VEGETABLES
no more than 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day
Carrots
Broccoli (leaves and stems)
Edible flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus)
Celery
Bell peppers (any color)
Chinese pea pods (the flat kind without large peas)
Brussel sprouts
Cabbage (any type)
Broccolini
Summer squash
Zucchini squash
FRUITS
no more than 1 teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day
Apple (any variety, without stem and seeds)
Cherries (any variety, without the pits)
Pear
Peach
Plum (without the pits)
Kiwi
Papaya
Mango
Berries (any type)
Berries (uncooked)
Pineapple (remove skin)
Banana (remove peel; no more than about 2 1/8 inch slices a day for a 5 lb rabbit…they LOVE this!)
Melons (any – can include peel and seeds)
Star Fruit
Apricot
Currants
Nectarine
LIST OF POSSIBLE FOODS TO FEED
NOTE: It is always preferable to buy organic produce if at all possible. If collecting wild foods such as dandelion greens, make sure they are from a pesticide-free area. All fresh foods regardless of the source should be washed or scrubbed (in the case of hard vegetables) before serving them to your rabbit.
LEAFY GREENS
These foods should make up about 75% of the fresh portion of your rabbit’s diet (about 1 packed cup per 2 lbs of body weight per day).
Leafy Greens I (need to be rotated due to oxalic acid content and only 1 out of three varieties of greens a day should be from this list)
Parsley
Spinach
Mustard greens
Beet greens
Swiss chard
Radish tops
Sprouts (from 1 to 6 days after sprouting, sprouts have higher levels of alkaloids)
Leafy Greens II (low in oxalic acid)
Arugula
Carrot tops
Cucumber leaves
Endive
Escarole
Frisee Lettuce
Kale (all types)
Mache
Red or green lettuce
Romaine lettuce
Spring greens
Turnip greens
Dandelion greens
Mint (any variety)
Basil (any variety)
Watercress
Wheat grass
Chicory
Raspberry leaves
Cilantro
Radicchio
Bok Choy
Fennel (the leafy tops as well as the base)
Borage leaves
Dill leaves
Yu choy
NON-LEAFY VEGETABLES
These should be no more than about 15% of the diet (About 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day).
Carrots
Broccoli (leaves and stems)
Edible flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus)
Celery
Bell peppers (any color)
Chinese pea pods (the flat kind without large peas)
Brussel sprouts
Cabbage (any type)
Broccolini
Summer squash
Zucchini squash
FRUITS
These should be no more than 10% of the diet (about 1 teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day). NOTE: unless otherwise stated it is more nutritious to leave the skin on the fruit (particularly if organic), just wash thoroughly. IF you are in doubt about the source of the fruit and you are concerned about chemicals in the skin, then remove it.
Apple (any variety, without stem and seeds)
Cherries (any variety, without the pits)
Pear
Peach
Plum (without the pits)
Kiwi
Papaya
Mango
Berries (any type)
Berries (uncooked)
Pineapple (remove skin)
Banana (remove peel; no more than about TWO 1/8 inch slices a day for a 5 lb rabbit)
Melons (any – can include peel and seeds)
Star Fruit
Apricot
Currants
Nectarine
*Lists courtesy of The House Rabbit Society.
Encephalitozoonosis (E. cuniculi)
Encephalitozoon cuniculi (ECUN) is a microsporidium parasite related to fungi. Rabbits can either become infected while they develop within their mother’s uterus or by either ingesting or inhaling spores passed in the urine or feces from rabbits already carrying the disease. Ingested spores pass through the walls of the intestine into the blood where they then travel to other areas of the body. In most rabbits,the disease spreads onward to the kidneys, eye and brain. Most rabbits show no signs of disease early on in the infection. In some rabbits the disease progressing and can have serious consequences including death if their immune system fails to contain it. Infection that takes place in the brain results in head tilt and may cause other signs such as weakness, paralysis, altered appetite, tremors or seizures. In the eye, E. cuniculi causes cataracts and sometimes a condition called phacoclastic uveitis.
Diagnosis
An antibody test is performed in the ELISA format on a small blood sample and results are currently reported as a titer. All samples are screened at a 1:64 dilution for IgM and IgG E. cuniculi specific antibodies. C-Reactive Protein is a standardized automated assay providing quantitative results as part of the test.
Treatment
There is no known cure for E. cuniculi, however, treatment with an anti-parasitic medication called Fenbendazole will very often control the parasites and treat the symptoms. Other treatments can include supportive feedings, hydration, anti-inflammatories, dizziness medicine, and eye treatments if there is a head tilt. Some rabbits may continue to have a permanent head tilt after recovery.
Wry Neck/Head Tilt in Rabbits
Rabbits sometimes develop a head tilt that gets progressively worse until they roll uncontrollably when they try to move. This condition is commonly known as “wry neck”. There are many different diseases that can cause wry neck such as an ear infection, a parasite known as Encephalitozoon cunniculi (often just called E. cunniculi or encephalitozoonosis), and others. Depending on the cause, treatment is often quite successful if initiated early. Sometimes the treatment arrests the underlying disease but the rabbit continues to have a head tilt. Most of these learn how to live with their new view of the world and many gradually return to almost a normal posture.
Head tilts in rabbits are caused by a disruption in their sense of balance caused most commonly by either a bacterial infection or a parasite called E. cuniculi. We will start your rabbit on medications for both of these potential causes today.
Bacterial infection of the inner ear can be caused by a number of bacteria, most commonly by Pasteurella. Pasteurella is treated with antibiotics but can result in chronic infections that can recur in the future. Testing is available to determine if this bacteria may be causing your rabbit’s symptoms.
E. cuniculi is a fairly common one celled parasite of rabbits and many rabbits will carry the parasite in their bodies for years without any symptoms. This parasite normally cannot be cured, but it can be controlled with long term medical treatment with a medication called Fenbendazole. We recommend testing all rabbits showing signs that may suggest infection with this parasite to determine if long term therapy is going to be needed.
Along with treating the underlying cause of the head tilt, supportive care is important. Medications can be prescribed to help with the dizziness associated with rolling. Fluid support may be necessary if a rabbit is not able to drink enough. Many rabbits will also require assist feeding.
Most rabbits will improve with therapy, though some may have a mild residual head tilt.
In addition to medication, rabbits with head tilts can become very disoriented, lay sideways or roll. Use rolled up blankets and towels as supports for your rabbit if your rabbit starts having trouble. If their condition worsens, give us a call.
Upper Respiratory Infections/Snuffles in Rabbits
Since a rabbit has to breathe through its nose, any medical condition that restricts or blocks the nose is life-threatening. An infection of the nasal passages, also known as bacterial rhinitis, is often due to Pasteurella multocida but may be caused by many other species of bacteria. This infection is commonly known as “snuffles” for the congested breathing sound and watery mucus that drips from the nostrils. It is part of an upper respiratory disease complex in rabbits which may include sinus infections (sinusitis), eyelid infections (conjunctivitis), ear infections (otitis), and trachea and lower airway infections (tracheobronchitis), and may progress to severe infections of the lung (pneumonia). Rhinitis that has lasted more than 3 weeks, has returned after medical treatment, or has been resistant to initial medical treatment, is considered chronic.
A rabbit with a crusty nasal discharge (red arrow) from “snuffles”. Compare to the nostrils of a healthy rabbit. (Both rabbits were asleep under anesthesia at the time of the photos.)
This rabbit has a mucopurulent discharge from its nostrils, a much more obvious case of “snuffles”.
Administering Fluids to Rabbits
An ill rabbit may not drink enough water on its own to do well. Your rabbit may be dehydrated if you see any of these problems: thick sticky saliva, crusty eyes, poor appetite, small amounts of dark colored urine, or hard dry fecal pellets.
In order to correct dehydration, extra water must be given to your rabbit. Sometimes this can be done by helping the rabbit drink. Some rabbits need to have fluids given by other methods, either by subcutaneous fluids, intravenous fluids, or intraosseous fluids.
Using A Syringe To Help Your Rabbit Drink
A rabbit may drink from a syringe that is placed in the corner of its mouth. The water should be offered slowly with frequent pauses so the rabbit can swallow and rest. If the water is just dribbling out of the mouth, stop what you are doing. Try again in 30 minutes. If the rabbit still will not drink, your veterinarian may prescribe subcutaneous fluid.
Subcutaneous Fluids
Subcutaneous fluids are fluids that are injected beneath the skin. They may be abbreviated as SQ fluids or SC fluids. This may be used for a rabbit that is still alert and is not in critical condition. SQ fluids may be something that your veterinarian will want you to give to your rabbit at home.
Different kinds of fluids may be used in different situations. Lactated ringer’s solution and saline are two of the more commonly used SQ fluids.
In order to give SQ fluids, you should wrap your rabbit in a towel. The towel should be somewhat loose but prevent the rabbit from backing up or suddenly moving forward. Make sure your rabbit can breathe easily in the towel. To give the fluids, expose the skin over the rabbit’s shoulders. Pinch the skin together with your forefingers so that there is a small “tent” of skin elevated above the shoulders. The needle should be inserted from the back to the front into the upside-down “V” below the skin tent. Advance the needle in about half of its length and then try giving the fluids. If you were given a syringe, press on the plunger firmly to administer the fluids. If you were given a bag of fluids, open the valve on the fluid line and squeeze the bag. If the fluids flow easily, you are successful. If the fluids are hard to give or your rabbit seems uncomfortable, you may not have the needle in the right spot and should slowly advance it or take it out and try again. Once you are done given the fluids, pull out the needle and gently pinch the hole where the needle was to prevent fluids trickling onto the skin.
A bag of fluids should be thrown out within 30 days if its first use. If at any time you notice that the bag of fluids is cloudy, throw it out and get a new replacement.
Intravenous and Intraosseous Fluids
Some rabbits have medical problems where they need a constant supply of fluids directly into their circulatory system. These rabbits are in critical condition and would not do well on SQ or oral fluids alone.
Intravenous fluids (IV fluids) are given through a catheter that is inserted into a vein on the rabbit’s forearm, leg, or occasionally ear. Intraosseous fluids (IO fluids) are given through a catheter that is inserted into the bone marrow of an arm or a leg. Fluids given this way must be closely monitored to ensure that the rabbit is not getting too much or too little. In most situations, the rabbit will need to stay in the hospital while it is on IV or IO fluids so that the technicians and doctors can respond to any sudden changes.
Dental Problems: Rabbits
The image to the left shows a small molar spike within the mouth of a rabbit. This bunny has started to eat less because that small sharp corner of this cheek tooth is starting to irritate its tongue. If not corrected, this may create a painful ulcer on the tongue and lead to a crisis situation.
A Little Bit About Rabbit Teeth
Rabbits are chewers and gnawers. In the wild, they feed on tough grasses, leaves, and bark that wear down their front teeth (incisors) and cheek teeth (premolars and molars). As a result, rabbits have teeth that grow continuously to replace the portion that wears away with chewing.
Why Do They Get Dental Problems?
Dental problems are very common in captive rabbits if they do not get proper diets. The main portion of their diet should be high quality timothy hay, such as the Oxbow Timothy Hay, which helps wear the teeth and provides enough fiber to promote their gastrointestinal health. If a pet rabbit does not get enough timothy grass hay to cause tooth wear similar to what it would get in the wild, its teeth may grow in unusual shapes. This is particularly due to lack of material to physically grind the biting surface of the teeth. Pelleted food and alfalfa hay are soft and do not cause the rabbits to chew vigorously side to side as timothy hay does.
Very severe lower cheek teeth “spikes”, much more obvious on the left side of the picture. A bleeding ulcer is visible on this side where the teeth are grinding on the lining of the cheek as the rabbit chews.
Lower cheek teeth “spikes” (green arrows) are digging into the tongue and cause pain and difficulty chewing and swallowing.
Upper cheek tooth spike (green arrow) that has a sharp surface irritating the cheek. Upper cheek teeth problems may be very difficult to detect without a thorough endoscopic oral exam on an anesthetized rabbit.
“Picket fence” teeth, a layman’s term for a form of malocclusion where the teeth are not aligned. In this case, some of the teeth are forming points that hit the cheek and others hit the tongue.
“Stair step” teeth, a layman’s term for a form of malocclusion where the teeth are different heights. In this case, some of the teeth are forming points that hit the tongue. If you’ve ever had a filling that the dentist didn’t shape properly, you’ll know how this uneveness makes it difficult to chew.
The “stair step” teeth in the previous picture have been filed to a more normal chewing surface.
Dental disease can develop for a variety of other reasons. For example, some animals may be born with abnormally shaped teeth that simply don’t line up for proper grinding. This is particularly common in dwarf and lop-eared rabbit breeds. Injuries to the mouth, skull, or jaw bone may cause the teeth to grow at odd angles. Tumors may also start to deform the shape of the teeth.
Practices to Promote Healthy Teeth
- Proper Diet. Have timothy hay available at all times. This provides the right amount of fiber to keep their gastrointestinal tract healthy and helps prevent problems developing with their teeth. In addition to the timothy hay, we recommend the following:
- Rabbits: We recommend offering a small amount of timothy hay pellets (e.g., Oxbow Bunny Basics/T™) in the evening. Rabbits under 5 lbs should get no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a cup of pellets daily while larger rabbits should be offered no more than 1/2 to 3/4 cup daily. Other dried grasses and hays (e.g., Oxbow Orchard Grass, Alfalfa Hay, Oat Hay, etc.) may be given sparingly as treats. Depending on the size of the rabbit, one to three cups of dark green leafy vegetables, fresh grass, mulberry leaves, and hibiscus leaves and flowers may also be given daily. Tiny treats of fruit such as banana or watery vegetables such as carrots are okay but more than a tablespoon of these items may cause diarrhea. Salt blocks may be offered to the rabbit but avoid ones that contain calcium as these may lead to bladder and kidney stones. Alfalfa pellets (e.g., Oxbow Bunny Basics™ 15/23) may be given to growing rabbits or rabbits with special needs but are not recommended for healthy adult rabbits.
- Veterinary Exams Bring your pet in for an annual physical examination. We’ll check the length and condition of their teeth. For a pet with ongoing problems, we recommend a check every 4 to 6 months so that we can tackle problems before they impact its health. If we find that the teeth are overgrown, we will set up an appointment to file the teeth under general anesthesia and administer other treatments that may be needed.
If you are at all concerned that your pet may be developing dental disease please make an appointment for an exam!
A rabbit having its cheek teeth filed while under general anesthesia.
Some rabbits require such frequent teeth filing that extraction of the abnormal teeth is a better option. This rabbit had to have all four incisor teeth extracted because they grew in at such abnormal angles and required filing every few weeks. Extraction of an incisor is a delicate procedure and a rabbit requires lots of special attention afterward until its mouth heals. Fortunately, most rabbits do quite well without any incisors.
Cataracts in Rabbits
Rabbits often develop a cloudy appearance to their eyes. The eyes may become cloudy on the cornea (surface of the eye), the lenses, or any of the chambers inside. There may be many different causes for this disorder ranging from a parasite, Encephalitozoon cunniculi, to a corneal scratch or ulcer, cataracts, or various infections. A rabbit eye can quickly get damaged beyond repair so any time you see a change in an eye, a health consultation is a must.
Further Reading
