Photo Credit: Wikipedia

Kinkajou Care Guide

Potos flavus

Kinkajous are mammals in the family Procyonidae, which also includes coatis and raccoons. They are sometimes called “honey bears” because of their tendency to raid beehives in search of honey. They are native to the tropical rainforests of Mexico and Central and South America, where they spend most of their lives in the tree canopy searching for food. Kinkajous are nocturnal and can be loud and rambunctious at night. In captivity, they have an average lifespan of approximately 20 years. Kinkajous may bond strongly with humans but can be aggressive towards others or if not properly socialized when young. Because of their potential for aggression toward humans and their complex care requirements, kinkajous are not recommended as pets for many households. Additionally, keeping a kinkajou as a pet is not legal in all states and cities, therefore checking your state and local laws is imperative prior to purchasing a kinkajou as a pet.


Enclosure

Kinkajous are arboreal and possess prehensile tails, which make them excellent climbers. Large, tall enclosures with plenty of climbing ropes, shelves, and perches are necessary. Large cages, such as those designed for macaws, are commonly used to house kinkajous indoors. Minimum enclosure size requirements for an adult would be 8 feet long by 4 feet wide by 6 feet tall. Spacious outdoor enclosures are even better, as they can accommodate additional climbing and perching structures. If your kinkajou enclosure is outdoors, ensure that your animal has shelter in order to protect itself from inclement weather and that the enclosure is secure and predator proofed. Kinkajous generally cannot be litter-trained and will often climb to the highest level of their enclosure to urinate or defecate. It is essential to ensure that the enclosure is escape-proof, as these intelligent animals are notorious escape artists. Enclosures should have plenty of toys and other enrichment items to prevent boredom and destructive behaviors. Hanging wooden toys, ladders, large-sized PVC pipes, sleeping sacks, and swings are highly recommended. In general, it is recommended to keep captive kinkajous together in a bonded pair.

Substrate

For outdoor enclosures, concrete flooring is ideal because it can be easily cleaned and disinfected. Hard, non-porous surfaces also prevent the accumulation of harmful bacteria or parasites, which can affect your kinkajou. Newspaper, plastic shelf liners, or linoleum can be used in indoor enclosures for similar purposes.

Humidity

In the wild, kinkajous inhabit environments where humidity ranges from 50% to 70%. To support their long-term health and well-being, keepers should aim to maintain a similar humidity range within the enclosure. During dry, warm months, a humidifier can be placed near an indoor enclosure to increase environmental moisture. Outdoor enclosures can be equipped with automatic misting systems or shallow pools with running water to help maintain optimal humidity levels.

Temperatures

As tropical animals, kinkajous thrive in warm environments. Their ideal temperature range is 76–85°F. They should not be kept at temperatures below 60°F, as prolonged exposure can cause significant stress and illness. Ceramic heat emitters can be used to maintain appropriate enclosure temperatures during cooler months. Because kinkajous can reach through enclosure bars with their long arms or prehensile tails, heating elements must be installed carefully. Your kinkajou should never be able to come into direct contact with a heat source.

Lighting

Kinkajous are nocturnal and are typically most active at night. To mimic a natural light cycle, they should be exposed to natural sunlight or artificial light during daylight hours. At night, lights should be turned off, or the enclosure should be covered. Lamps can be placed on timers to provide consistent, predictable light cycles. Kinkajous may become aggressive if disturbed during their daytime resting hours.

Diet/Feeding

Kinkajous are considered omnivores, but are primarily frugivorous, meaning that they mainly eat fruit. However, they also require dietary protein for optimal health. In the wild, kinkajous consume fruit, nectar, insects, bird eggs, small frogs, and occasionally flowers. As their nickname suggests, they may also raid beehives to access the honey inside. Kinkajous are notoriously messy eaters and may toss food bowls around their enclosure. For safety, mounted, heavy-duty bowls are recommended.

Most of the diet should consist of fresh tropical fruits, such as bananas, papayas, mangoes, kiwis, grapes, pomegranate and melons. Vegetables and edible plant blossoms may also be offered. Appropriate protein sources include insects such as mealworms or crickets, cooked eggs, and lean chicken. Commercial primate diets from brands such as ZuPreem and Mazuri may also be used to provide supplemental nutrition.

Foods to avoid include dairy products, citrus fruits, strawberries, avocados, cauliflower, broccoli, and onions.

Wellness / Preventive Care

Annual wellness examinations by a qualified exotic-animal veterinarian are recommended to ensure that your kinkajou remains healthy and to identify early signs of illness. Pet kinkajous should be routinely vaccinated against rabies and canine distemper virus under the guidance of a veterinarian. It is recommended to have your kinkajou spayed or neutered at 6-12 months of age. Annual fecal examinations are also recommended to screen for gastrointestinal parasites, some of which may be zoonotic and cause illness in humans. Deworming medications can be prescribed if parasites are found in a fecal sample. In areas where heartworm disease is prevalent, kinkajous should also be screened and given preventive medication as recommended by your veterinarian.

Additional Information

Kinkajous are high-maintenance exotic pets and should be cared for only by experienced keepers. They require frequent interaction, play, and enrichment, as inadequate attention can contribute to behavioral problems. Their tendency to damage their enclosures and escape can also make them challenging to keep in captivity. In addition, kinkajous have very specific dietary requirements, and failure to meet these needs can lead to serious health complications.