Green Iguana

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Green Iguana Care Guide

Iguana iguana

Green iguanas are large, tropical, semi-arboreal, herbivorous lizards native to Central and South America and some Caribbean islands. They are considered an invasive species in the southeastern United States and several Hawaiian islands. They do best in hot, humid environments and with proper care can live greater than 15 years.

Enclosure

Due to their active lifestyle and large adult size — males can exceed 6 feet in length — custom-built enclosures are often necessary. Indoor or outdoor enclosures may be appropriate depending on your climate. Minimum enclosure size for an adult is 10 ft long × 6 ft high × 5 ft wide. Enclosures should be both escape- and predator-proofed.

Solitary housing is recommended in most situations. Males should never be housed together. Small groups of females can sometimes coexist peacefully, but aggression and fighting injuries are possible.

Iguanas are very active and need room to exercise and climb. While free-roaming the house can provide additional exercise space, this should be limited to supervised exercise only. For proper health, iguanas need to spend the majority of the day in a temperature- and humidity-controlled enclosure with appropriate UVB lighting.

Large, sturdy branches should be secured within the enclosure for climbing and basking, along with a variety of solid platforms positioned to allow the iguana to rest beneath the heat and UVB lamps without coming into direct contact with any bulbs. Nontoxic, edible live plants can also be provided and planted in the enclosure.

Substrate

Recommended substrates include coconut fiber, reptile soil, and cypress mulch. Paper towels or newspaper can also be used. Feed iguanas on an elevated platform off the substrate and monitor to prevent accidental substrate ingestion and impaction.

Temperature

Provide a temperature gradient throughout the enclosure:

  • Ambient: 80–90°F
  • Basking area (near top of enclosure): 100–105°F
  • Cool end / nighttime: 75–80°F

Provide heat using a basking bulb, ceramic heat emitter, or radiant heat panel. Monitor temperatures with a digital probe thermometer or infrared laser thermometer. A reptile thermostat is recommended for safer, more accurate temperature control. Heat rocks should be avoided — they pose a serious risk of severe burns.

Humidity

Maintain ambient humidity of 70–90%, measured with a digital hygrometer. This can be achieved by misting with a pressure sprayer morning and evening, or by installing a misting/fogging system. Provide a large water tub — big enough for the iguana to soak in — and clean it frequently. Chronic dehydration from inadequate humidity is a common cause of kidney failure in pet iguanas.

UVB Lighting

UVB lighting is essential for iguanas to properly absorb calcium from their diet. UVB cannot pass through standard glass — placing an indoor reptile near a window does not provide adequate UVB. Zoo Med or Arcadia brand high-output UVB bulbs are recommended, such as the ReptiSun 10.0, Arcadia Desert 12%, or Arcadia D3 Dragon 14%. The Zoo Med Powersun UVB mercury vapor bulb produces both heat and UVB but should only be used in large enclosures.

  • Fluorescent UVB bulbs should be positioned so the reptile can get within 12–18″ of the bulb — use branches or logs to allow climbing closer if needed
  • Mercury vapor bulbs produce significant heat — place a minimum of 12″ from the basking spot
  • Dense screening can block up to 50% of UVB — multiple bulbs may be needed for cages with very dense screens

Replace UVB bulbs every 6–12 months depending on the model — the UVB-emitting coating wears off even when the bulb still produces visible light.

Diet & Feeding

Green iguanas are herbivores. Feed a varied diet of dark leafy greens (60–70% of the diet) and vegetables (20–30% of the diet) daily. Fruit is high in sugar and can cause diarrhea — offer only in small quantities (less than 5–10% of the diet). All food should be adequately washed, chopped or grated, and mixed. Young iguanas need food finely chopped.

  • Feeding frequency: young iguanas twice daily; as they grow, reduce to once daily, then every other day for adults (3 feet and longer)

Leafy greens: turnip greens, mustard greens, beet greens, kale, collards, bok choy, Swiss chard, dandelions, parsley, romaine, escarole, and spinach. Note: spinach should not be overused as it binds iodine and calcium.

Other vegetables: squash, zucchini, sweet potato, bell pepper, broccoli, peas, beans, okra, carrot, and pumpkin.

Fruit (occasional treat only): figs, papaya, melon, apple, peaches, plums, strawberries, tomatoes, banana (with skin), grapes, and kiwi.

Supplementation:

  • Calcium carbonate (without D3) — e.g., Zoo Med ReptiCal — sprinkled over food 2–3 times weekly
  • Multivitamin containing true vitamin A — e.g., Zoo Med Reptivite — once weekly. If housed indoors, use Reptivite with D3

Veterinary Care

An annual wellness examination and fecal screening for parasites is recommended for all reptiles.