Hamsters

Hamster Basic Info

Hamsters are very popular pets for children. There are five different species of hamsters available in the pet trade, the Syrian hamster and four species of dwarf hamsters. Each one has a slightly different personality and not all of them are great choices for children.

In fact, we recommend any time a small child handles a hamster, an adult should be present to ensure the child is being gentle and that appropriate hygiene is being practiced. Hamster cages should be placed in locations where young children cannot open the doors without assistance. It is best for older children or adults to take hamsters out of their cages since this is the time when hamsters are most prone to wiggle or nip.

Syrian Hamster

The most common pet hamster is the Syrian hamster (Mesocricetus auratus). This is also known as the golden hamster or common hamster. It has been selectively bred for many generations into a variety of colors and hair lengths. The Teddy Bear hamster has long fur which often requires brushing to stay unknotted. There are Black Bear hamsters which are solid black except for white feet, Panda Bear hamsters that are black with white patterns similar to the panda, albinos, leucistics, and many other kinds. Black Bear hamsters get larger than other breeds and as a rule are tamer and better around children. Any of the Syrian hamsters will become gentle pets for children when they are treated in a calm and gentle manner. Syrian hamsters may live 2 to 4 years, but most live 3 years or less.

The Syrian hamster is a solitary animal once it is about 2 months old. If you try to keep Syrian hamsters together after that age, they will usually start fighting. This fighting can be very harmful resulting in open wounds, missing feet, punctured eyes, and even death. It is best to keep the Syrian hamster by itself if you want a tame, healthy pet.

Roborovski Hamster (also known as Robo Hamster or Robo Dwarf Hamster)

A young adult “Robo hamster”. These small speedsters do not sit still for petting, and are not the best choice for a small child who wants a cuddly pet.

The Roborovksi hamster (Phodopus roborovksi) is the smallest dwarf hamster available, generally weighing an ounce or less as an adult (30 g) and being about the size of a small chicken egg. A Robo hamster may live 2 to 3 years with some occasionally reaching 4 years. This hamster is fast and is definitely not a good choice as a handleable pet for small. Fortunately, it is much less prone to bite than other dwarf hamsters when it is handled. It is fascinating to watch one go about its business in a properly equipped large cage, especially one with lots of clear plastic tunnels, wheels, and other things to explore. Roborovksi hamsters are social and can be kept in small groups if they are raised together. However, if a new hamster is introduced to a group it may be bullied and fighting may erupt.

Robo hamsters may like chinchilla dust or chinchilla sand but they are not as likely to use it as Campbell’s and Winter Whites. You can place a small bowl of this dust, available from pet stores, into the cage for 15 to 30 minutes. After a few explorations, many hamsters will learn to take a dust bath and groom themselves clean. This helps keep their fur fluffy and removes grease and oils.

Campbell’s Dwarf Hamster

The Campbell’s dwarf hamster (Phodopus campbelli) is closely related to the winter white hamster and can freely interbreed. In fact, many hamsters sold may actually be a hybrid of the two species. Campbell’s dwarf hamsters live 18 to 30 months. They are often more outgoing and visible in their cages than other dwarf hamsters. With regular gentle handling, they become very good pets. As a general rule, Campell’s dwarf hamsters are more prone to nip or bite when they are upset than the winter white. They are social and can live in groups but must be introduced to each other at an early age, typically no later than 8 weeks of age.

Campbell’s dwarf hamsters seem to benefit from weekly access to chinchilla dust or chinchilla sand. You can place a small bowl of this dust, available from pet stores, into the cage for 15 to 30 minutes. After a few explorations, many hamsters will learn to take a dust bath and groom themselves clean. This helps keep their fur fluffy and removes grease and oils.

Winter White Hamster (also known as Djungarian Hamster, Russian Dwarf Hamster, or Siberian Hamster)

A winter white hamster undergoing a color change.

The winter white hamster (Phodopus sungorus) is closely related to the Campbell’s dwarf hamster and may interbreed. As a result, there are many hybrids in the pet trade. The winter white hamster will change its fur color seasonally and develops a pure white coat in the winter, hence its name. Hybrids may or may not go through this startling color change. Winter white hamsters live 18 to 30 months. As a general rule, they are more likely to try to hide or run away when upset. They are social and can live in groups but must be introduced to each other at an early age, typically no later than 8 weeks of age. However some appear to be solitary and fight as they get older, so be prepared for your happy group to change over time.

Winter white hamsters seem to benefit from weekly access to chinchilla dust or chinchilla sand. You can place a small bowl of this dust, available from pet stores, into the cage for 15 to 30 minutes. After a few explorations, many hamsters will learn to take a dust bath and groom themselves clean. This helps keep their fur fluffy and removes grease and oils.

Chinese Dwarf Hamster

Chinese dwarf hamsters (Cricetulus griseus) look like a cross between hamsters and mice. They have much longer bodies and longer tails than the other dwarf hamsters. Chinese dwarf hamsters are not truly hamsters since they come from a different genus of rodents than do the other hamsters. They are more timid than other hamsters and rarely bite, but they are as fast and unpredictable as the Roborovksi hamsters. A Chinese dwarf hamster will tend to wrap its small tail around part of your finger when it is sitting still on your hand. They typically live 2 to 3 years. They are not as social as other dwarf hamsters and generally do best as solitary pets or as a male and female pair that have been raised together since they were 8 weeks of age.

Hamster Tapeworms

Many hamsters sold in pet stores are infected with the tapeworm (Rodentolepis nana). This parasite can be transmitted to people.

The good news is that hamster tapeworms treatment is relatively easy and usually effective. We recommend all new hamster pets have an examination and fecal exam test for parasites performed to ensure your and your hamsters best health.

Hamster Husbandry and Diet

All hamsters need secure cages that are made from sturdy materials. A hamster can chew a hole through a plastic shoebox within about 30 minutes so make sure that the container you use to hold the hamster during cage cleaning is equally secure. There are many commercially available hamster cages that have plastic tunnels and attachments that allow you to build very extensive habitats. Always be sure to properly latch any doors or lids as hamsters are notorious for finding these openings and escaping into houses. It can be very difficult to locate escaped hamsters. If you have pet dogs, cats, or ferrets in the house, your hamster may end up seriously injured or even killed if they escape from the habitat and encounter your other pets.

Recycled paper bedding or non-toxic wood shaving work well for the bottom of the cage. Avoid colored or scented bedding as well as cedar shavings and pine shavings. Shredded paper towels may also work.

An exercise wheel or dish is an essential part of a hamster cage. The dish works great for the smallest dwarf hamsters while the larger Syrian hamsters do better with a wheel. Hamsters enjoy exploring. Paper towel tubes, cereal boxes, and small pieces of cardboard will be investigated and played with before being shredded. There are many types of durable plastic toys that hamsters will carry around. Some even allow a treat like a sunflower seed to be hidden inside. A cleaned plastic pill bottle can be turned into a simple toy–place a seed in the bottom, stuff some tissue paper into the bottle, and hide it in the hamster cage. After the treat is gone, many hamsters will carry around the pill bottle and play with it. Some may even use it to hoard leftover food.

Oxbow’s Healthy Handfuls is an excellent staple diet for all hamsters. As a general rule, this diet should be available at all times. Small cubes of timothy hay (such as Zoomed’s Grassland Tortoise Diet [yes, the tortoise diet!] or Oxbow’s Hay Treats) may also be available at all times. Nuts and seeds should only be offered as treats or as incentives to explore toys (as described above). Sunflower seeds can be offered as treats, no more than one or two seeds a day for Syrian hamsters or one per week for miniature hamsters. They should not be a main part of the diet. Smooth nuts like hazel nuts, almonds, and Brazil nuts are enjoyed. Walnuts, pecans, and wrinkled nuts should be offered sparingly. Corn, dried beans, and other grains and seeds are often found in hamster diets but again should only be offered in small amounts. These nuts and seeds are not balanced and can lead to obesity and trace mineral deficiencies if a hamster eats too many of them.
Green leafy vegetables, green beans, hibiscus flowers, or leafy branches from hibiscus bushes or mulberry trees are welcome treats. Avoid dried fruits, fresh fruits, and sugary vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes as these can cause diarrhea and lead to diabetes.
Fresh water should be available at all times. If you have more than one hamster in a cage, it is important to have water bottles at different ends of the cage so that the dominant hamster does not bully the other hamsters and keep them away from the water. It’s also a good idea to keep food scattered around for the same reason. (Many hamsters cannot live together once they are adults. Please check the article on introducing hamsters to each other in order to make sure your hamster is a social!)

Common Problems in Hamsters

Hamsters, like other pets, need veterinary care for a variety of problems. We recommend that a newly purchased hamster have an examination by a qualified veterinarian to ensure your pet is healthy.

Bring in fresh fecal samples with your pet, collected on a moist paper towel, placed in a sealed Ziploc bag, and left at room temperature for no more than 4 hr before your visit.

It is very important to act quickly when you detect a problem with your hamster as signs like diarrhea or breathing difficulties can result in death if not treated.

Demodex mite, a common cause of hair loss in hamsters.

Dwarf hamster with a severe ear infection.

A pinworm egg. Although low numbers of pinworms are normal in hamsters, they can cause diarrhea, hair loss around the anus, and death when they reach high levels.

A tapeworm proglottid (bundle of eggs) from a Syrian hamster. These small moving white objects may be found on your hands after holding an infected hamster. One common species of hamster tapeworm can be passed to people so it is important to have your hamster checked for tapeworms and treated appropriately.

Wet Tail, or diarrhea, is a common disorder of hamsters that if left untreated often leads to dehydration, and death. There are many possible causes of wet tail so it is important to see a veterinarian to properly diagnose your sick hamster. Do not “wait it out” with wet tail as a hamster can die within a few days once diarrhea has started.