Guinea Pigs Basic Care
Guinea pigs are wonderful companions for many people. They have a rich range of noises they make to communicate with each other and their human family. Since they are so social, it is important to keep them in pairs or larger groups. However, some guinea pigs do best by themselves if they spend a lot of time out with their owners.
DIET
An adult guinea pig needs to have timothy, orchard, and/or other types of hay available at all times to keep its teeth worn properly and to keep its stomach and intestine healthy. Additionally, a guinea pig needs a good timothy-based pellet and any mixes should be avoided and only feed a pure pellet diet. Feed only the recommended amount of pellets listed on a bag. If offered unlimited pellets, a guinea pig may munch on pellets and not the hay. That can lead to problems with dental disease, bloating, constipation, and diarrhea.
Young, growing guinea pigs and sows that are pregnant or have babies need a different diet than healthy adult guinea pigs. Timothy hay should be available at all times, but it is a good idea to offer alfalfa hay every day to provide a little extra protein to support growth. Offer pellets that are also a little richer in protein and other nutrients, such as Oxbow’s Young Guinea Pig Food. The pellets should be available all the time until weaning, then limited to 1/4 cup daily.
It is always a good idea to provide extra vitamin C in the form of fresh bell peppers, parsely, and even tiny pieces of citrus fruit. A snack of a tablet containing vitamin C is another way to make sure your guinea pig is being adequately supplemented. Oxbow Natural Science Vitamin C treats are a good way to provide the additional vitamins, although chewable vitamin C products for people may also be used. If you use a human product, make sure you break it into smaller pieces so you are not giving more than 10 mg to your guinea pig per day.
We do not recommend adding vitamin C to the water as it makes the water taste bad and many guinea pigs will go thirsty rather than drinking the vitamin-enriched water. Additionally, the vitamin C deteriorates quickly in the water bottle.
WATER
Fresh water should always be available. Some guinea pigs like water bowls and some like water bottles. Water should be changed daily. Disinfect the bowl or bottle with a solution of 1 tablespoon bleach to 1 cup of water at least once a week and rinse thoroughly with fresh water before refilling it for your guinea pig. Some guinea pigs with special needs may be given water flavored with fruit juice so that they drink more, but this should only be done with a veterinarian’s approval.
CAGING
An adult pair of guinea pigs needs a cage at least 4 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 2 feet tall. A solid floor is recommended since wire floors can create Painful medical conditions with the feet. Provide at least two plastic guinea pig hutches or cardboard boxes big enough to hide in (but not so cramped a guinea pig can’t turn around). It is a good idea to have at least two hide boxes per guinea pig. The cage should be well-ventilated.
Recycled paper products, such as Yesterday’s News™ or Carefresh™, work well as substrates, as do paper towels and blank newsprint (available from specialty paper shops or online paper supply companies).
Many guinea pigs quickly learn to use litter boxes, but you may need to place a couple of old fecal pellets in with the litter to get them started. Paper pulp products, such as Yesterday’s News™ or Carefresh™, or compressed straw pellets, such as Eco-Straw Litter, should be used in the litter box. Clean the litterbox daily, more often if needed, so that your guinea pig does not develop dirty fur on its hind feet and tail from going into a soiled litterbox. If the litter box isn’t cleaned daily, a guinea pig may sit in the soiled litter and may not urinate as often which may lead to bladder infections and stones.
TEMPERATURE
Guinea pigs can become overheated or cold easily. Do not expose to temperatures above 85°F for prolonged periods. Guinea pigs may have supervised access to a yard even during our hottest months as long as there are plenty of cool shady retreats.
HANDLING
Always scoop up a guinea pig to fully support all four feet and its belly. Children under the age of ten should always have older experienced guinea pig handlers help them hold their pet. Guinea pigs learn routines very easily and look forward to their play time outside of their cages. Be careful when they are on furniture as startled guinea pigs can leap off laps and injure themselves if they fall too far.
Guinea Pig Lumps and Bumps
Guinea pigs can get a wide variety of masses, growths, and bumps on their bodies. Although we cannot diagnose a mass just by looking at or feeling it, there are some more common masses that occur.
Trichofolliculoma
A Trichofolliculoma is another word for a benign basal cell epithelioma. This is the most commonly diagnosed “bump” on a guinea pig. They are commonly cystic, meaning they produce a sebaceous type of substance that is of a toothpaste consistency. These bumps vary in size ranging from a small nodule to a large cavitated and malodorous mass. Catching them while they are still small is ideal because the only way to cure/treat them is to surgically excise the entire capsule. If the entire capsule is not removed (i.e. the capsular substance is only debrided and cleaned out), then the cells will continue to overproduce the sebaceous material and refill. 
Abscesses
While the trichofolliculoma masses can look similar to an abscess (an accumulation of bacteria and inflammatory debris (i.e. pus)), they are different in origin. While abscesses can happen anywhere on/in the body, a common place we can see abscess occur in guinea pigs is the lymph nodes in the neck. This is called cervical lymphadenitis and is typically caused by a certain type of bacteria, Streptococcus zooepidemicus.
Neoplasms
Types of malignant tumors are not as common as the other masses noted above; however, they can be the cause of the mass on a guinea pig. The most common type of malignant neoplasm diagnosed from a “lump or bump” on a guinea pig is lymphosarcoma. Diagnosis can only be made by sending a sample of the mass to a laboratory and this can be done by either fine-needle aspirate (using a needle to sample the cells of the mass) or surgical excision and biopsy (sending the actual tissue of the mass into the laboratory).
Since many of these lumps and bumps can look similar to the naked eye, if you notice a mass on your guinea pig, please consult a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment options.
Caseous Lymphadenitis in Guinea Pigs
Caseous lymphadenitis, or lymph node abscessation, is most commonly caused by Streptococcus equi subspecies zooepidemicus, but can be caused by other Streptococcus species of bacteria. It manifests as encapsulated abscesses within the cervical or submandibular lymph nodes in guinea pigs. Guinea pigs often show no other signs of disease, but in cases where the bacteria spreads systemically, other pathologies can arise. These can include, but are not limited to pleuropneumonia, ear infections, septicemia, or sudden death.
Streptococcus zooepidemicus can be found in the oral/nasal cavity of guinea pigs without causing clinical disease. It is thought that abrasions to the oral mucosa (due to rough feed, dental disease, or bites from other guinea pigs) increase the risk of migration of the bacteria to the regional lymph nodes. However, guinea pigs have been experimentally induced with caseous lymphadenitis via inoculation of the conjunctiva of the eye or the nares without mechanical damage to either involved. Another cause of swollen lymph nodes is cancer but that is typically in older guinea pigs.
Diagnosis is made by aspiration of affected lymph nodes and culture of the bacteria.
Treatment consists of surgically opening and flushing affected lymph nodes. In severe cases, removal of the lymph node may be warranted.
Commonly used antibiotics include Trimethoprim-sulfa, chloramphenicol, and Azithromycin. Meloxicam can be given for post-surgical discomfort. Provide supportive care and assist feedings if there is any difficulty eating/prehending food.
Prognosis is very good if localized entirely to cervical/submandibular lymph nodes and treated early. It is technically a zoonotic disease (spread from animals to humans), but rarely does it spread from guinea pigs to humans.
Ovarian Cysts in Guinea Pigs
Ovarian cysts are fluid filled structures that develop on or near the ovary. There are many types of ovarian cysts and their prevalence in guinea pigs ranges from 58-100%. The two main types are 1) serous cysts, also known as nonfunctional or rete ovarii cysts, and 2) hormone producing follicular cysts. Rete cysts are non-hormone producing and typically do not cause clinical signs unless they are large and pushing on other organs. Follicular cysts develop from follicles on the ovary that fail to ovulate. When these types of cysts develop, the classic sign is non-itchy flank hair loss. Other signs include decreased appetite, gradual increase in abdominal size, behavioral changes and possibly decreased defecation. Physical exam may reveal a round mass/masses on abdominal palpation as well as changes to the nipples like hyperkeratosis and hyperpigmentation. The other less common types are 3) neoplastic cysts which are ovarian cancer with cystic characteristics and 4) parovarian cysts which are the rarest and derive from the parovarium, a remnant structure of the ovary from development. How and why development of cystic ovaries happens is not fully understood but there are many different theories.
Hair loss or endocrine alopecia typical of guinea pigs with ovarian cysts.
Suspicion of ovarian cysts in guinea pigs is made by presenting history and physical exam findings, and diagnosed with radiography and abdominal ultrasound. Ultrasound usually reveals a thin-walled fluid filled suggestive of ovarian cysts.
Ovariohysterectomy, or spaying, is the recommended treatment, especially in rete cysts because the surgery is curative and rete cysts do not respond to medical/hormone treatment. However, ovariohysterectomies can be challenging due to the anatomy of the guinea pig reproductive tract where the ovaries are located high up close to the kidneys. If surgery is not an option, supportive care can also be performed by drainage of the fluid; however, the cysts are likely to return even within a matter of days. Follicular cysts can be hormone responsive and historical treatment has been with human chorionic gonadotropin (hCG) injections but this is a controlled substance and hard to find for veterinary use. Hormone implants (Deslorelin) and injections (Lupron) have not been shown to work in guinea pigs.
Reproductive tract of a guinea pig being spayed showing the large, fluid filled cysts near the ovaries.
Prognosis depends on the type of cysts, treatment chosen, and overall health of the animal. Although surgery is curative, it does come with risk. Cyst drainage can be a form of relief but it is not a long-term resolution. Hormone therapy has variable efficacy, especially since it may work in only one type of cyst and there is no definitive way to know what type of cyst a guinea pig has without surgically removing it and sending it out to a laboratory for histopathology.
Ringworm in Guinea Pigs
Ringworm is not actually caused by a worm but is a skin infection caused by a fungus. While lesions alone can lead to high suspicion of an infection, definitive diagnosis is made by culturing the fungus or by PCR testing. Because the culture test can take 2-3 weeks to complete, treatment is typically started immediately in suspect cases. The PCR test is more commonly used and results generally take 3 days. If the test is positive, treatment should continue and cultures or PCR testing should be repeated every 3 weeks until two consecutive negative results are obtained for the fungus.
Ringworm can be spread to other pets and people which is why a retesting during and after treatment is important. Please keep a close watch on the other pets that once lived with an infected pet and call your veterinarian if they are showing signs of hair loss.
This infection can potentially spread to people. Practice good hygiene and wear gloves when handling this pet or material from its cage. Wash hands thoroughly with warm soapy water after working with this pet. Wash surfaces thoroughly with warm soapy water, launder fabric bedding and toys, vacuum/mop area flooring.
VITAMIN C Recommendations for Guinea Pigs
Vitamin C deficiency, also known as Scurvy, is a common disease in our pet guinea pigs. The average guinea pig requires 10-20 mg of vitamin C every day. An unhealthy guinea pig may need 100 mg of vitamin C daily so temporarily increase the dose if you suspect your guinea pig is becoming sick.
Guinea pigs cannot synthesize their own vitamin C. Symptoms of vitamin C deficiency in guinea pigs include rough fur, loss of appetite, difficulty eating, diarrhea, problems with wounds healing, lameness, joint swelling, bruising, gastrointestinal stasis, bumblefoot, and increased susceptibility to bacterial infections (i.e. respiratory infections). Prolonged deficiency can affect skeletal and tooth development leading to brittle bones and dental problems.
Many people try to satisfy a guinea pig’s need for vitamin C feeding fresh fruits and vegetables. This can be done, but we need to make sure we’re picking veggies that have good vitamin C levels without excess sugar and limiting fruit in the diet. For example, leafy greens provide quality vitamin C without as much sugar as a bell pepper. This is not to say that your piggie can’t have the higher sugar foods, they just need to be given sparingly to avoid making your guinea pig overweight or giving your guinea pig intestinal issues.
Another consideration when using fresh fruits and veggies to supplement your guinea pig’s Vitamin C requirements, is the amount of Calcium in those fresh food items. We don’t want to consistently pick a high calcium food item, as this can predispose our piggies to bladder stones.
Just like anything else with diet, it’s all about balance.
| Leafy Greens | Vitamin C / 0.5 Cups | Calcium / 0.5 cups | Starch & Sugar / 0.5 Cups |
| Parsley (10 sprigs) | 130 mg | 138 mg | 0.3 grams |
| Kale | 100 mg | 200 mg | 1.0 grams |
| Mustard Greens | 80 mg | 100 mg | 1.0 grams |
| Turnip Greens | 60 mg | 190 mg | 0.8 grams |
| Romaine Lettuce | 9 mg | 36 mg | 0.6 grams |
| Red/Green Leaf Lettuce | 6 mg | 33 mg | 0.5 grams |
| Bibb/ Boston Lettuce | 6 mg | 35 mg | 35 mg |
This chart shows the vitamin C and Calcium content of common leafy greens fed to guinea pigs. We recommend guinea pigs receive 1/2 to 1 cup total of leafy greens daily.
| Vegetable | Vitamin C / 0.5 Cups | Calcium / 0.5 cups | Starch & Sugar / 0.5 Cups |
| Red bell peppers | 150 mg | 8 mg | 4.5 grams |
| Green bell peppers | 80 mg | 10 mg | 3.0 grams |
| Broccoli | 93 mg | 47 mg | 1.5 grams |
| Sweet potato | 10 mg | 25 mg | 5 grams |
| Carrot | 9.3 mg | 30 mg | 5 grams |
| Zucchini | 20 mg | 19.8 mg | 3.1 grams |
This chart shows the vitamin C and Calcium content of many vegetables fed to guinea pigs. We recommend only a small amount of these vegetables (less than 1/4 of a cup) be fed only 2-3 times a week.
| Fruit | Vitamin C / 0.5 Cups | Calcium / 0.5 cups | Starch & Sugar / 0.5 Cups |
| Apple (with skin) | 5.75 mg | 7 mg | 13 grams |
| Orange | 53 mg | 50 mg | 12 grams |
| Strawberry | 56 mg | 20 mg | 6 grams |
| Grapes | 5 mg | 12 mg | 20 grams |
| Blueberry | 12 mg | 8.88 mg | 12 grams |
This chart shows the vitamin C and Calcium content of many fruits fed to guinea pigs. We recommend fruit be fed to guinea pigs only as a rare treat as they contain lots of sugar which can lead to serious problems if overfed.
So what other options are there? We recommend using a product designed for guinea pigs, Oxbow Natural Science Vitamin C. This is a small “cookie” like treat that supplies your guinea pig with the vitamin C they need to be healthy. For a healthy guinea pig, we recommend feeding ½ a treat per day, which provides roughly 10 mg of Vitamin C. We carry this in our store area.
Feeding a high-quality pellet, such as Oxbow, Mazuri, Small Pet Select, Sherwood, and Zupreem brands, will also assure appropriate nutrition with quality ingredients. These brands focus on quality control and the Vitamin C will be stabilized lasting longer once the bag has been opened. Since Vitamin C is easily broken down, most of the companies only guarantee the Vitamin C amounts for 3 months after the bag has been opened. Choosing a food that has timothy-based pellet and no “extras”, such as seeds, nuts, colored pellets, dried fruits, etc., is also important. Guinea pigs will pick out those “extras” which are nutritionally empty and leave behind the nutritionally balanced pellet.
You may also use a liquid vitamin C for humans. There are many different brands of liquid vitamin C sold in health food stores. Most have about 250 mg per teaspoon so a dose of 1/8 teaspoon a day is right for a guinea pig if needed. If you are using a human product and are not sure that it is the same dose as this, please call and let a doctor know what you are using and so you can be sure you are giving the right amount.
Water based vitamin C drops can also be found at pet stores; however, we do NOT recommend these for several reasons. First, because these dilute the vitamin C into a very low concentration in the water your guinea pig would have to drink ridiculously large amounts of water to reach their needs every day. Second, they make the water taste funny and will discourage your guinea pig from drinking enough water. And third, vitamin C is sensitive to exposure to light. Since most water bottles are clear to white opaque light can penetrate to the vitamin C and inactivate it – rendering it useless.
Seizures in Guinea Pigs
True seizures are rare in guinea pigs. If your guinea pig cries out, falls to one side, and starts twitching, it is most likely infected with a skin parasite known as guinea pig mange (Trixacarus caviae). The seizure-like behavior is due to the intense itching sensation caused by the mites burrowing through the skin. Some guinea pigs may have mites and a normal coat of hair. Other guinea pigs will develop patches of hair loss. In the span of a few weeks, a guinea pig may become bald over most of its body.
In Arizona, true seizures are frequently caused by a guinea pig getting too hot and developing brain damage. Other common causes are ear infection, a head injury (getting dropped onto the floor), infections, tumors, and poisons. Many guinea pigs may never have a cause found and this is termed “idiopathic epilepsy”. If your guinea pig has seizured, do not delay getting to a veterinarian! An exam including bloodwork and other diagnostic tests should be done as soon as possible. If you suspect your guinea pig got too hot, this is a life-threatening emergency! Cool its feet with rubbing alcohol mixed with water and place it on a damp washcloth until you are able to get to the veterinarian.
Respiratory Infections in Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are very sensitive to infections of the upper respiratory tract and lungs. A seemingly minor sniffle or sneezing episode may be an early sign of a much more serious disease. A guinea pig may appear normal one day, have a nasal discharge and sneeze the next day, and develop labored breathing (their abdomen moves instead of their chest) and have pneumonia and even die within 48 hrs of the first signs of a problem. Some other signs of a respiratory tract infection are poor appetite, weight loss, ruffled fur, and crusty eyes. Due to the speed at which a guinea pig can go from healthy to critically ill, we recommend a health consultation at the first sign of a respiratory infection.
There are many different kinds of microorganisms that can cause respiratory illness in guinea pigs. The bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica (the same bacteria that causes “kennel cough” in dogs) and Streptococcus pneumoniae are among the more common infections. Some guinea pigs may live for a long time with these bacteria in the respiratory tract without showing signs of disease but any stress, such as a change in routine, pregnancy, or introduction of a new cagemate may trigger an outbreak of respiratory problems.
Streptococcus is apparently mainly passed from us to our guinea pigs. Bordetella is often found in apparently healthy rabbits (and dogs) and can be passed from the rabbits (and dogs) to any guinea pigs that have close contact. If you have other pets in the house, it is always a good idea to thoroughly wash your hands with warm soapy water before playing with your guinea pig.
Antibiotics and other medications need to be started early to give your guinea pig the best possible chance of recovery. Unfortunately, some guinea pigs still die despite treatment for reasons we do not fully understand.
Many guinea pigs that develop respiratory disease are deficient in vitamin C either because their guinea pig pellets are too old and the vitamin C has wasted away or they get vitamin C in their water but do not drink enough water. It is critical to make sure your guinea pig gets at least 50 mg of vitamin C a day when sick and about 15 mg a day to stay in good health.
Administering Fluids to Guinea Pigs
An ill guinea pig may not drink enough water on its own to do well. Your guinea pig may be dehydrated if you see any of these problems: thick sticky saliva, crusty eyes, poor appetite, small amounts of dark colored urine, or hard dry fecal pellets.
In order to correct dehydration, extra water must be given to your guinea pig. Sometimes this can be done by helping the guinea pig drink using a syringe. Some guinea pigs need to have fluids given by other methods, either by subcutaneous fluids, intravenous fluids, or intraosseous fluids.
Using A Syringe To Help Your Pig Drink
A guinea pig may drink from a syringe that is placed in the corner of its mouth. The water should be offered slowly with frequent pauses so the animal can swallow and rest. If the water is just dribbling out of the mouth, stop what you are doing. Try again in 30 minutes. If the guinea pig still will not drink, or is drinking less than about one ounce of water per pound of bodyweight two to three times a day, your veterinarian may prescribe subcutaneous fluid.
How To Give Subcutaneous Fluids
Subcutaneous fluids are fluids that are injected beneath the skin. They may be abbreviated as SQ fluids or SC fluids. This may be used for a guinea pig that is still alert and is not in critical condition. SQ fluids may be something that your veterinarian will want you to give to your guinea pig at home.
Different kinds of fluids may be used in different situations. Lactated ringer’s solution and saline are two of the more commonly used SQ fluids.
In order to give SQ fluids, you should wrap your guinea pig in a towel. The towel should be somewhat loose but prevent the guinea pig from backing up or suddenly moving forward. Make sure your guinea pig can breathe easily in the towel. To give the fluids, expose the skin over the guinea pig’s shoulders. Pinch the skin together with your forefingers so that there is a small “tent” of skin elevated above the shoulders. The needle should be inserted from the back to the front into the upside-down “V” below the skin tent. Advance the needle in about half of its length and then try giving the fluids. If you were given a syringe, press on the plunger firmly syringe. If you were given a bag of fluids, open the valve on the fluid line and squeeze the bag. If the fluids flow easily, you are successful. If the fluids are hard to give or your guinea pig seems uncomfortable, you may not have the needle in the right spot and should slowly advance it or take it out and try again. Once you are done given the fluids, pull out the needle and gently pinch the hole where the needle was to prevent fluids trickling onto the skin.
A bag of fluids should be thrown out within 30 days if its first use. If at any time you notice that the bag of fluids is cloudy, throw it out and get a new replacement.
Intravenous and Intraosseous Fluids
Some guinea pig have medical problems where they need a constant supply of fluids directly into their circulatory system. These guinea pigs are in critical condition and would not do well on SQ or oral fluids alone.
Intravenous fluids (IV fluids) are given through a catheter that is inserted into a vein on the guinea pig’s forearm or leg. Intraosseous fluids (IO fluids) are given through a catheter that is inserted into the bone marrow of an arm or a leg. Fluids given this way must be closely monitored to ensure that the guinea pig is not getting too much or too little. In most situations, the guinea pig will need to stay in the hospital while it is on IV or IO fluids so that the technicians and doctors can respond to any sudden changes.
Mites in Guinea Pigs
Does your guinea pig have dry scaley skin? Does it scratch itself constantly and make noises like it just can’t get comfortable? Does it sometimes fall on its side and seem to be twitching like a seizure? Chances are your guinea pig is suffering from skin mites or some other skin parasites (ectoparasites).
One mite, known as Trixicarus caviae, may be difficult to detect. Your veterinarian may suggest skin scrapes, “tape preps”, or even biopsies of the skin to help diagnose your guinea pig. Skin scrapes look for parasites, such as Trixicara, that burrow beneath the skin. Tape preps look for parasites that spend part of their time on the surface of the skin. When mites or other ectoparasites are found, that strongly supports that the skin parasites are causing the guinea pig’s problems. Failure to find anything on the skin scrape and tape test does not completely rule out ectoparasites — Trixicara mites may not be found unless over a dozen skin scrapings are performed! Clearly this amount of skin scraping is not in the best interest of the guinea pig so it may be better to try “response to treatment” if a guinea pig’s initial skin scrape is negative. Biopsies may sometimes find parasites that are missed by the skin scrapes or may detect another underlying illness.
Dander, flakes, and fur loss due to Trixicarus caviae infestation.
It is important to allow a veterinarian to perform the tape preps and skin scrapes since there are other ectoparasites besides Trixicara. Many of the other ectoparasites are easy to detect and may be quite easy to treat. On the other hand, Trixicara can be quite resistant to treatment and may take several months of medication to eliminate. Some guinea pigs may never fully eliminate the mite and require a monthly treatment with selamectin or ivermectin to stay healthy. Extra vitamin C daily is essential to help the skin return to health.
Healing after treatment for mites. It may take weeks for the fur to fully regrow.
Bladder Stones: Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs often develop bladder stones composed of calcium carbonate. This can be the result of improper diet and cause a bladder infection. The bladder stones of guinea pigs cannot be dissolved with special medications or diets.
In order to reduce the risk of bladder stones, make sure your guinea pig drinks plenty of water. Provide bottled drinking water (without a vitamin C additive) low in mineral content if you live in areas with hard water. Sometimes adding a small amount of fruit juice to the water may increase drinking, but the water would need to be changed daily and the water bottle cleaned and disinfected daily.
Do not feed guinea pigs alfalfa pellets or hay. Also avoid dark leafy green produce high in calcium. The high calcium levels in some foods may increase the risk of bladder stone formation.
Other tips for preventing bladder stones:
- Provide daily vitamin C by a pill such as Oxbow’s Daily C or a liquid supplement for humans. Your guinea pig should get at least 90 mg a day. As stated above, do not use the vitamin C that is dissolved in the water!
- Provide moist produce that is high in vitamin C (bell pepper, parsley, cilantro, and limited amounts of oranges). A study by Dr. Hawkins at the University of California (Davis) found that guinea pigs that were regularly fed bell peppers had a lower incidence of bladder stones, but the reason for this is not understood.
- Offer no more than 1/8 of a cup of guinea pig pellets a day. Timothy hay should be present at all times, along with fresh grass or browse (such as mulberry leaves or hibiscus leaves), and moist produce.
- Clean the litter box daily, and spot clean the cage daily to remove urine and feces. Guinea pigs like to stand where they urinate and defecate. This may allow bacteria to travel up the urethra and into the bladder. The more dirty the cage bedding, the more bacteria that are there to cause an infection.
Guinea pigs with bladder stones may benefit from vitamin E supplements and glucosamine (e.g., Cosequin) sprinkled onto the food.
Any guinea pig that is having trouble urinating, losing weight, or just acting unusual could have a bladder stone. X-ray films and an ultrasound may help confirm that a bladder stone is present. Unfortunately, surgery to remove the bladder stone is usually needed. Males are at risk of life-threatening blockages since the bladder stone can get stuck in the penis, and are more likely to be diagnosed with bladder stones than females. Due to their different anatomy, female guinea pigs may urinate out small bladder stones, but in rare cases they too will retain the smaller stones that grow into bigger stones.
Assist Feeding
If your guinea pig is not eating well, it needs to be started on a diet such as Oxbow’s Critical Care for Herbivores right away. It is much easier to help a sick guinea pig that has been assist fed until you are able to have it seen by a doctor than it is to help one that has been hungry and thirsty for several hours. Make sure that your guinea pig is also getting one or two tablespoons of water by mouth several times a day.
If you do not have a packet of Critical Care for Herbivores (abbreviated as CCH), you may come in any time to buy a packet to have on hand as part of your guinea pig “First Aid Kit”.
Assist-feeding a guinea pig can be a difficult procedure. Before you try feeding, please make sure you have the following items prepared:
- A feeding syringe and a small syringe filled with water to flush the mouth between feedings and when you are finished with a feeding session
- The CCH should be mixed to a slurry. It is best to mix it up at least 15 minutes ahead of time so that it has fully absorbed the water and expanded to the right consistency. Some guinea pigs tolerate the CCH better if it is prepared with warm water (105°F) or has a small amount of banana or fruit juice added to the mix while others take it fine prepared with cool or lukewarm water. Practice squirting this through the feeding syringe to make sure it doesn’t clog.
- A towel to towel wrap your guinea pig and stop its wriggling. Most guinea pigs need to be firmly wrapped in a towel (a guinea pig “burrito”) during the assist feeding while some tolerate it better if held loosely. You should wear clothes you don’t mind getting messy!
- A helper may be necessary until you gain experience holding your guinea pig and syringe-feeding at the same time.
- Any oral medications that are needed should be loaded and ready to go before starting. It is best to give the oral medications before you start the feeding effort.
Towel wrap your guinea pig snugly, so its front paws are contained within the towel and its head is poking out the top. Place your guinea pig with its bottom in your lap with its head slightly elevated. Do not elevate the front half of the body too high as this can cause it to gag and choke during the feeding process. Hold gently but firmly on either side of its head on the cheeks with your thumb and forefinger to prevent it jerking away from the syringe.
Fill the syringe with CCH. Place the syringe tip into the mouth as far back as possible and pointed slightly downward. Slowly inject about 3 ml of the CCH into its mouth and let it chew for a few minutes before trying to offer more. If you put too much in at one time, it will spit it out. After two or three squirts of food, follow with about 3 ml of water, then try the food again. You may have to rest and just pet your guinea pig every few minutes if it is appearing distressed by the whole experience. It takes patience to get enough into and may take 30-60 minutes to get through a typical feeding with some guinea pigs. For some guinea pigs it is better to give a small amount of CCH (10-15 ml) every hour than trying to force a large amount (30-50 ml) three or four times a day. You do not have to assist feed your guinea pig between 11 pm and 7 am unless you want to try to do so.
It is important to have your guinea pig seen as soon as possible and to never continue the assist-feeding more than 24 hrs without the advice of a veterinarian!
Further Reading
