Blue-Tongue Skinks

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Blue Tongue Skink Care Guide

Tiliqua species

Blue tongue skinks are a genus of lizards comprised of several species native to Indonesia and Australia. They are popular pets due to their friendly nature, intelligence, and personality. When possible, obtaining captive-bred animals is recommended — wild-caught individuals may be more difficult to acclimate, handle, and tame, and often carry disease.

The northern (Tiliqua scincoides intermedia) and eastern (Tiliqua scincoides scincoides) Australian species are the most commonly kept and are typically captive-bred, docile, and hardy. Indonesian species are still often wild-caught. Males typically have a larger, wider head than females, though definitive sexing requires imaging or endoscopy. Blue tongue skinks are ovoviviparous — they carry eggs until they are ready to hatch, then give live birth — and are capable of tail autotomy (dropping the tail in defense). With proper care, their life expectancy is 15–20+ years.

Enclosure

Minimum enclosure size for an adult is 48″ long × 24″ high × 24″ wide, though larger enclosures (6 ft long × 4 ft wide × 3 ft high) are preferred. Provide at least one hide on both the warm and cool sides. Enrichment items can include cork bark flats, logs, branches or rocks for climbing, and artificial or live nontoxic plants. An elevated basking platform should be provided. Blue tongue skinks are territorial — solitary housing is recommended.

Substrate

Blue tongue skinks like to dig and burrow, so substrate depth should be 4–6+ inches. Substrate needs vary by species:

  • Arid species (most Australian): reptile/organic topsoil, reptile bark or forest floor substrates, aspen shavings, or Carefresh bedding — a humid hide (enclosed chamber filled with damp sphagnum moss) should always be provided
  • Tropical species (most Indonesian): humidity-retaining mixtures of cypress mulch, coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, leaf litter, and reptile/organic topsoil

Bioactive setups are also popular and appropriate when maintained correctly. Always feed off the substrate and monitor for any signs of substrate ingestion.

Temperature

Provide a temperature gradient using a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter:

  • Warm side: 75–85°F
  • Cool side: no lower than 70°F (also acceptable at night)
  • Basking spot: 95–105°F

Monitor temperatures with a digital probe thermometer or infrared laser thermometer. A reptile thermostat is recommended for safer, more accurate temperature control. Heat rocks should be avoided — they pose a serious risk of severe burns. No lighting should be provided at night.

Humidity

Humidity requirements vary by species:

  • Australian species: 40–60%
  • Indonesian species: 60–80%

Measure with a digital hygrometer. Humidity can be maintained through hand or pressure misting twice daily, humidity-retaining substrates, or an automated misting/fogging system. A humid hide filled with damp sphagnum moss should always be provided — check frequently for mold and replace often.

Provide a sturdy, difficult-to-tip water crock large enough for the skink to soak its whole body. Soak in warm, shallow water (below chin level) for 10–15 minutes 1–2 times weekly to aid hydration, defecation, and shedding. Inadequate humidity can lead to dehydration, kidney disease, and difficulty shedding.

UVB Lighting

While not strictly required for survival, UVB lighting improves vitamin D synthesis and is recommended for blue tongue skinks. Zoo Med or Arcadia brand bulbs are recommended, such as the ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia Forest 6%. Ensure your reptile can get within 12–18″ of the bulb. Dense screening can block up to 50% of UVB — multiple bulbs may be needed for enclosures with very dense screens.

UVB lighting should be on for 12 hours per day with no lighting at night. Replace bulbs every 6–12 months — the UVB-emitting coating wears off even when the bulb still produces visible light.

Diet & Feeding

Blue tongue skinks are omnivores. Variety is essential — avoid offering the same food items repeatedly. Diet ratios vary by age:

  • Juveniles (under 1 year): 70–80% protein, 20–30% greens and vegetables; feed daily as much as they will eat
  • Adults: 50–60% protein, 40–50% greens and vegetables; feed 1–2 times weekly
  • Fruit: less than 10% of the diet for all ages

Blue tongue skinks readily become obese — monitor food intake carefully.

Protein sources: ZooMed’s canned grasshoppers and snails, frozen/thawed feeder rodents, feeder insects (crickets, roaches, mealworms, hornworms, black soldier fly larvae/phoenix worms, silkworms, red wigglers, earthworms), organ meats (liver, heart, gizzard), eggs (including shell), ground turkey, chicken, duck, venison, rabbit, or lamb, and Reptilinks.

Vegetables: collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, squash (spaghetti, scallop, butternut, acorn, Hubbard), peas, Brussels sprouts, carrots, dandelions (pesticide-free), and hibiscus flowers (pesticide-free).

Fruit: mango, raspberries, figs, papaya, cantaloupe, strawberries, and blueberries.

Avoid: citrus, avocado, eggplant, rhubarb, high-sodium canned meats, and high-sodium dog or cat foods and treats.

Commercial options such as Lugarti’s Premium Blue Tongue Skink Food, Arcadia Omni Gold, and Repashy Superfoods gel diets (Bluey Buffet, Grasshopper Pie, Grub Pie) can provide variety but should not replace fresh foods.

Supplementation:

  • Calcium carbonate (without D3) — e.g., Zoo Med ReptiCal — sprinkled on food 2–3 times weekly
  • Multivitamin containing true vitamin A — e.g., Zoo Med Reptivite — once weekly. If housed indoors, use Reptivite with D3

Common Medical Problems

Nutritional Secondary Hyperparathyroidism (NSHP)

Common in baby skinks raised on calcium-deficient diets without UVB exposure or a dietary source of vitamin D3. Early signs include kinked tail tips, followed by spinal abnormalities. Bowing of the lower jaw indicates very advanced disease. If caught early, treatment can prevent further skeletal abnormalities from developing, but existing changes will not reverse.

Dysecdysis (Retained Shed)

It is rare to find an adult blue tongue skink with all ten toes intact. If the enclosure is too dry during shedding, skin is commonly retained on the toes, tail tip, and eyelids. Vitamin A deficiency also contributes to this problem. If several sheds accumulate and cut off circulation, toe and tail tip necrosis and sloughing may occur.

Stomatitis

Stomatitis is an infection and inflammation of the mouth and gums with many potential causes, including a diet too high in soft food. Blue tongue skinks should have plenty of crunchy and leafy vegetables in their diet to help clean the teeth. Stomatitis often results in permanent changes to the gums and bone around the tooth sockets — prevention is key.

Respiratory Infection

Signs include sneezing, clear to mucoid nasal discharge, open-mouthed breathing, or drooling. This is often caused by inappropriately low temperatures or poor hibernation practices.

Parasites

Wild-caught imported blue tongue skinks frequently carry parasites, particularly amoebas and flagellates. Nematodes and other helminths are occasionally seen. Proper identification by a veterinarian and treatment with prescription anti-parasitic medications is necessary.

Veterinary Care

An annual wellness examination and fecal screening for parasites is recommended for all reptiles.