Bearded Dragon

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Bearded Dragon Care Guide

Pogona vitticeps

Bearded dragons are a medium-sized lizard native to Australia and one of the most popular pet lizards due to their manageable size and wonderful personalities. Their typical life expectancy as pets is 8–10 years, though some individuals can exceed this.

Enclosure

Minimum enclosure size for an adult bearded dragon is 48″ long × 24″ high × 24″ wide (approximately 120 gallons). Juveniles can be temporarily housed in smaller setups (20–40 gallon). Bearded dragons are territorial — solitary housing is recommended.

Provide at least one hide on both the warm and cool sides of the enclosure. Enrichment items can include cork bark flats, branches or rocks for climbing, and artificial or live nontoxic plants. An elevated basking platform should also be provided. Egg-laying females will need a nest box.

Substrate

Recommended substrates include newspaper, paper towels, cage carpet, tiles, flagstone, or vinyl flooring that cannot be ingested and is easy to disinfect. Avoid sand, calcium sand, and walnut shell substrates due to a high risk of intestinal impaction and blockage. If using loose/particulate substrates, always feed off the substrate and monitor closely for any signs of ingestion.

Temperature

Provide a temperature gradient throughout the enclosure using a basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter:

  • Warm side: 85–90°F
  • Cool side: no lower than 75°F (down to 70°F at night)
  • Basking spot: 95–105°F

Monitor temperatures with a digital probe thermometer or infrared laser thermometer. A reptile thermostat is recommended for safer, more accurate temperature control. Heat rocks should be avoided — they pose a serious risk of severe burns. No lighting should be provided at night.

Humidity

Maintain ambient humidity of 30–40%, measured with a digital hygrometer. Provide a shallow water dish and clean it frequently. Soak bearded dragons in warm, shallow water (below chin level) for 10–15 minutes 1–2 times weekly to aid hydration, defecation, and shedding.

UVB Lighting

UVB lighting is essential for bearded dragons to properly absorb calcium from their diet. UVB cannot pass through standard glass — placing an indoor reptile near a window does not provide adequate UVB. Zoo Med or Arcadia brand high-output UVB bulbs are recommended, such as the ReptiSun 10.0, Arcadia Desert 12%, or Arcadia D3 Dragon 14%. The Zoo Med Powersun UVB mercury vapor bulb produces both heat and UVB but should only be used in large enclosures.

  • Fluorescent UVB bulbs should be positioned so the reptile can get within 12–18″ of the bulb — use branches or logs to allow climbing closer if needed
  • Mercury vapor bulbs produce significant heat — place a minimum of 12″ from the basking spot
  • Dense screening can block up to 50% of UVB — multiple bulbs may be needed for enclosures with very dense screens

UVB lighting should be on for 12 hours per day. Replace bulbs every 6–12 months — the UVB-emitting coating wears off even when the bulb still produces visible light.

Diet & Feeding

Bearded dragons are omnivores and should be fed leafy greens daily at all life stages. Variety is essential — avoid offering the same food items repeatedly. Never feed prey items larger than the width between the dragon’s eyes. Remove uneaten live insects from the cage after a few hours — insects left in the enclosure can bite and injure your pet.

  • Babies and juveniles: live, gut-loaded feeder insects daily
  • Adults: insects 2 times weekly; greens daily

Good feeder insect options include crickets, mealworms, superworms, phoenix worms/black soldier fly larvae, waxworms, hornworms, silkworms, and feeder roaches.

Pellets formulated for bearded dragons (Mazuri, ZooMed, Fluker’s) and Repashy Beardie Buffer or Grub Pie can be offered as supplements but should not replace live insects and fresh greens.

Fruit is high in sugar and can cause diarrhea — offer only infrequently in small quantities as a treat.

Daily greens and vegetables — choose a variety from the following:

Collard greens, dandelion greens, endive, escarole, mustard greens, turnip greens, squash (acorn, butternut, hubbard, scallop, spaghetti, summer), alfalfa (plants), cactus pad/leaf (prickly pear), red leaf and romaine lettuce, and shrubs/cultivated plants such as hibiscus, cape honeysuckle, mulberry, strawberry bush, grape leaves, viola, violet, pansies, poppy, petunia, and geraniums.

Occasional treats:

Alfalfa sprouts, apples (seeds removed), apricots (pit removed), banana, cooked beans (garbanzo, green, kidney, lima, pinto), beet greens, beets, broccoli, cauliflower, corn, kiwi, bell peppers, blackberries, blueberries, red cabbage, cantaloupe, raw carrots, celery, cherries (no pit), cilantro, clover, fresh cranberries, cucumbers, kale, spinach, parsley, peas, pomegranate, grapefruit (seeds removed), seedless grapes, honeydew melon, nectarines, oranges, pea sprouts, peaches (pit removed), pears, pineapple, raw pumpkin, radish, raspberries, kelp, strawberries, Swiss chard, tomato, watermelon, wheat grass, and raw yams.

Supplementation:

  • Calcium carbonate (without D3) — e.g., Zoo Med ReptiCal — sprinkled on food 2–3 times weekly
  • Multivitamin containing true vitamin A — e.g., Zoo Med Reptivite — once weekly. If housed indoors, use Reptivite with D3

Veterinary Care

An annual wellness examination and fecal screening for parasites is recommended for all reptiles.